Honda-SOHC

Have you eliminated the possiblity that its coil or plug lead related rather than suspecting the Boyer unit?

As has been said if it was worn needles that would make it run richer then you might expect that to be reflected in the spark plug colouring. Are you using resistor plugs or just resistor caps. Are the spark plugs relatively new?

If you have the points base & advancer might be worth returning the ignition back to standard temporarily - easier than having to take the carbs off. (Never seen a Boyer Unit so not sure they are)

Yes, I checked them all and trimmed back and loose ones. I checked the connections on the boyer ignition and just to be sure the kill switch and ignition switch. I'm running resistor caps and non-resistor NGK plugs.
Unfortunately I had issues with the points cam running out of true hence going to boyer electronic.

Haven't been out much on the bike but got the chance to ride today. I tried turning the air screws in a bit but no difference to the bogging down unfortunately. Slightly richer means it won't idle cleanly unless I up the tickover speed to nearer 2000rpm so i'm guessing 1 1/8th turns out is about right. Also tried spraying the inlets with brake cleaner but no air leaks either.

The I rule out the more i'm beginning to think its electrical and the boyer ignition is to blame. Its happening between 2000-3000 rpm in all gears.

If it's a 750K6, @Hondaman on the sister US SOHC4 forum, has explained a few times that turning in the idle screw weakens the mixture, as it isn't an air screw, it is metering the flow of already mixed air/fuel. So unscrew to richen.

It still feels alien to me (I'm more used to Amal carbs). But, that's his advice.

Thanks it is a K6, good to know as I thought it was the other way around.

Thanks all, i'll try turning the screws in to richten it up a bit. I was told too lean and the revs hang when I blip the throttle and too rich revs will bog down then recover. I'm running the stock airbox & filter and the advance mech is replaced with the boyer kit.

Hi all, I could do with some advice regarding another problem with the K6. When opening the throttle to accelerate the bike momentarily cuts out. Its much more than a flat spot as for a split second the engine completely dies making the forks dive before picking up and accelerating as normal. It only does this when its up to normal temperature and the hotter the bike gets the worse the problem.

I'm running Boyer electronic ignition with the original coils. New plugs and timing checked. Carbs have been cleaned and balanced, new needle valves fitted and float levels checked. Don't know if its related but the bike is (and always has been) a very poor cold starter.

I'm running out of ideas. Coil breaking down maybe?

Ah, never thought of that as a screw as never seen one removed, as well as the piston piece you are missing there should be a nylon spacer between pad and piston

Ah I don't have that either. Ordered the pad seat from DSS now. Can't see it on the parts diagram, is it something I can make up?

this one. You can see slight damage to the lip where it rubbed before I trimmed it.

Another day, another problem.

I found why my front brake was dragging and hardly worked. The piston was catching on the little brake pad retaining screw poking through the back of the pad and pushing the pad at an angle so I only had about 25% contact. This seems too have caused the pad to tilt in the caliper and jam.

I've shortened the screw slightly to avoid catching the piston (which now has a nice groove in the lip) but should there be a dust seal on the piston and pad?