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Messages - Alexrayz
1
« on: February 03, 2025, 07:44:33 AM »
Hey man I had a similar issue with my bike, wouldn't charge, or at least the charging voltage was super low.
In my case it was one of the alternator coils that fried. The regulator was fed with two phases instead of three. As a result the rectified voltage was about the same as what you have.
Normally, at 3500 rpm, you should get 14V max. 12.5V means it is not charging.
I didn't do anything to find that out, my mechanic did this time, so can't really help ya with the research process.
Good hunting and looking forward to read your findings.
Cheers, ride safe!
2
« on: December 06, 2024, 09:22:16 AM »
Uuuh ?
This is a prank right?
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3
« on: October 31, 2024, 11:50:10 PM »
Hey Julie and Mike!
How big a difference would you say E5 is compared to E10?
I stick to E5 for the reasons you mentioned but I wondered how big the difference is. I don’t ride my ride so regularly these days and I’m always worried the carbs are getting pooped.
Cheers!
4
« on: October 31, 2024, 12:47:34 PM »
Hey man! That is a sad view, sorry about that!
My first guess would be overheating from an improper mixture?
Did you adjust the air/fuel mixture? At altitude there is less air available so the mixture becomes richer. Without adjustment it can get the balance off kilter and mess with the performance.
What kind of smoke did ya have? And was it struggling to idle or was it hanging revs?
Cheers and good luck for the rebuild.
5
« on: August 15, 2024, 11:29:43 AM »
Fortunately I didn't have to remove the carbs this time. I pulled the #3 airscrew and shot the carb cleaner in with a plastic syringe/short piece of stiff tubing that I tapered at the end. I managed to get a good seal with the taper in the airscrew fitting threads so there was a good bit of pressure with the carb cleaner so it cleared whatever may have been causing an obstruction.
Marvellous! Congratulations Mike  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
6
« on: August 05, 2024, 10:27:29 AM »
Thinking about it, I have no clue if the spokes were ever checked for slack. So maybe they are already at the wrong tension/ wrong “noteâ€.
Would there be some volunteers to send a recording of their spokes? With multiple data point I get a more accurate image.
Also would be fun and it would give future reference for others.
Send me your “pingsâ€!
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8
« on: August 05, 2024, 09:21:20 AM »
Alright, so I guess I could record my spokes as they are right now to have a reference for when I renew them uh? Something tells me after a few hours of pinging I might get ping-blinded  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
9
« on: August 04, 2024, 10:34:41 PM »
Hey everyone, I hope you are doing good!
Cinza is finally leak proof thanks to that sweet OEM oil pressure switch from Nurse Julie!
Now that we’re finally in the maintenance phase of its life, I wanted to relace the wheels with fresh spokes.
Mine are all corroded and gnarly looking… Not a good look!
But looking up how to do it, it seems having a spoke torque wrench is advised .
I don’t really want to shell 200€ for such a specialized tool.
Do you have any ideas or tips on how to go about it? Is the spoke torque wrench mandatory in order to do it properly?
Cheers!
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10
« on: July 15, 2024, 09:56:23 AM »
 that was my second job as a kid, so long time practicing.
First was given a little brass brush and feeler gauges to clean and gap spark plugs when my father worked on our family car, dont remember if he actually used the plugs, or it was just to keep me quite and out of his way. Did feel quite grown up with that responsibility though 
Then on to tappets as I didn't mess up the plugs.
Taught me to weld at about 12 years old too, all oxy /acetylene then as well.
Doesnt sound like a bad childhood experience Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
11
« on: July 14, 2024, 10:04:59 AM »
Has anyone used this tool?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203928464413
Tools like that (there's been a few design over the years) work OK but some prefer seperate. Makes it easy to hold both parts if access is restricted too.
Shouldn't be a problem, but as with most things, comes down to personal preference in trying it out.
I find it easier to finally tighten tappets by letting the cente rotate with the securing nut for that final torque, as opposed to holding the centre absolutely still as the threads tighten on each other in conflict.
Easier to do than describe ..... but would loosely approximate to aiming for a marginally wider gap than needed, only to let that close slightly with the final tighten to then arrive at correct specification to be checked and verified without touching the locknut again.
And you manage to get 0.005mm of clearance precisely? Doing it the way you describe I never could, that’s why I went for that tool Sean showed. Kudos to you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
12
« on: July 13, 2024, 06:05:59 PM »
Speaking of that, do you have a picture of the horn area? I have removed the wire bracket thingy and cant remember how to put it back i. place
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13
« on: July 03, 2024, 04:46:40 PM »
Hey there! Nice project Why not make a parallelepiped with the outer dimensions of the bike? Not fancy but it does the trick easily Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
14
« on: June 22, 2024, 10:12:45 PM »
 As has been suggested, it appears it is the idle jet. With the engine at idle, there was no reaction when turning the idle screw on that carb from totally closed to 2+ turns open. The other three immediately affected the idle rpm/smoothness. When I overhauled/synched the carbs last year, all of the mixture screws affected the idle as they were adjusted in/out.
I don't think there is a satisfactory way to clean the passage with the carbs on the bike but please tell me if I'm wrong about that!!
Any news on your situation Mike? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
15
« on: June 22, 2024, 08:02:36 PM »
Well I hope your back is okay!
I just listen to what the manual says yeah
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