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Messages - Mike_Berkshire
1
« on: March 20, 2025, 09:08:54 PM »
The hanging seems to be fixed now; somehow. I started and ran the bike this morning; allowing it to warm up before I used a strobe light to set the timing. Timing was out by a few degrees - in front of the F mark so retarded? Since I posted I had a hanging problem I have stripped and cleaned the carbs; replaced the old idle jets with 'new' Honda ones, re-set the float heights to 22mm; 2 were way out and re-synched the carbs on the bench so the slides are just opening. Before I bench-synched with a small gap using a drill bit as a gap tool. I have also fitted 2 in-line Aeroline fuel filters. Idle air screw is out 1.5 turns on all 4 carbs.
Another thing I noticed when starting the bike this morning was that when I turned the fuel tap on there was an audible release of air pressure. I also got this when I opened the fuel cap to check the fuel level in the tank. I have an aftermarket fuel cap from DS and when I checked the vent hole I found that a piece of cotton wool or similar was pushed into the little vent hole; presumably to prevent ingress of dirt. However, it was so tightly pushed in that it was preventing the air from getting in the tank so I removed it.
I don't seem to have any hanging issues now and the plugs which were super sooty are now a nice tan colour with no oil or soot.
The remaining issue is that the bike is not eager to pull away from standstill and needs more revs than I think it should. Im going to be investigating this next but if anyone has any pointers for this issue please point!
2
« on: March 20, 2025, 05:30:51 PM »
Looking at the colour are those SS front pipes Mike ?
Yes; Delkevic 4:1
3
« on: March 20, 2025, 03:32:00 PM »
Lovely sunny day on the Ridgeway
4
« on: March 17, 2025, 09:42:39 PM »
I don’t have gauges but now the bike is running reasonably well I can set the timing using a strobe light and get someone with vacuum gauges to accurately set the carbs up.
I have previously checked the advance mechanism and it was fine.
I set the carbs so that as you say the sliders are just opening-vacuum gauges should enable me to fine tune from there?
5
« on: March 17, 2025, 02:52:45 PM »
Thanks all for the help. I stripped and cleaned the carbs paying particular attention to the idle circuits giving it a good squirt through with carb cleaner, blowing out the residue and leaving overnight to evaporate away thoroughly. I rebuilt the carbs this morning with the new idle jets (thanks Julie, I forgot I had bought them but not fitted them!) and checked and adjusted the float heights - a couple were out by 1.5 - 2.0 mm. I re-synched the carbs; this time I set all sliders at the just opening position; previously I had set at a bigger gap. I fitted 2 of the in-line Aeroline filters (thanks Ted for the photos).
The bike ran much better and I have just got back from a blast up and down the road - about 5 or 6 miles; flipping cold but very satisfying :-)
There is still a slight hang now and then but nothing like it was; the bike hesitates when pulling away from a standstill and needs quite a lot of revs. Its been years since I rode a 4 cylinder bike so partly the 'hesitation' might be that I am more used to big twins with low-end torque? The bike still smells as if it running rich.
All in all a pretty good mornings work though
6
« on: March 16, 2025, 06:17:52 PM »
Yeah, different markets got different carbs, 087a sounds right for the states. You checked if it still has Keihin brass? They’ll be marked with a stylised K if they are.
all brassware is kosher. I did swap out the main jets as they were mixed sizes - Julie let me have some original main jets in the right size. I have replacement slow jets also from Julie and in original Honda packaging. New Viton rubber throughout.
7
« on: March 16, 2025, 05:09:27 PM »
069a carbs are for a CB550F not a CB500K Ted, as I'm sure you know. a 500K made for the UK should be wearing 627B carbs. The 069a carbs have 4 slots on their needles and it runs at 2nd from top as standard IIRC, the problems here sound like flooding to me, if you can smell petrol there's something wrong. Flooding will cause it to run really rich, hence the black plugs, it's like the engine is running on fast idle setting on a car with auto choke.
As these bikes get older we don't know what's been done to them before we bought it, it may no longer have the same brassware it was made with, a lot of people tended to think they'd be better replacing it with stuff like Keysters etc thinking it was wearing etc, worst thing they could have done IMO. The next owner then has to suffer that mistake and a lot move the bike on because it's not running as it should and they don't know why.
All 4 carbs on my bike are stamped 087A - its a US import 1976 K2 CB550
8
« on: March 16, 2025, 11:06:52 AM »
So is that why I have a hanging idle yet also symptoms of running rich like sooty plugs and strong fuel smell? Sounding like another carb off job
I have exact same symptoms Dom
9
« on: March 15, 2025, 10:24:26 PM »
Does this PDF file help at all?
Thanks Ted, it all helps. Incidentally mine is. ‘76 K2 and I also have the hollow tip cross drilled air screw in my carbs.
10
« on: March 15, 2025, 08:33:54 PM »
I didn’t Ted as I have dual fuel lines from the fuel tap and I thought there wouldn’t be room. Maybe a poor decision!
If you wanted to do this temporarily even, you can buy more pipe and route down under the carbs, site the two filters there in clear space, then route back up to the carb inlets.
It could be a pragmatic workaround while you deal with getting residual unwanted bits out of the system.
All mechanical things being in order ..... it's "always" fuel restriction against air supply that gives this hanging effect.
Can I check the meaning of " fuel restriction against air supply“. Do you mean something is happening to make mixture too lean when throttle is in closed position ie in the idle circuit?
11
« on: March 15, 2025, 08:29:57 PM »
I have a pair of new aero line filters and spare fuel line tubing so when I put the carbs back on I’ll do as suggested.
12
« on: March 15, 2025, 06:34:44 PM »
I didn’t Ted as I have dual fuel lines from the fuel tap and I thought there wouldn’t be room. Maybe a poor decision!
13
« on: March 15, 2025, 05:46:02 PM »
I thought I would check the mixture screw settings were correct this afternoon as it’s easy to do and doesn’t require removing anything significant. Something possessed me to remove the mixture screws and check they didn’t have any muck in them - they didn’t. I put them back setting them at 1 turn out. The bike won’t run now. It fired on a couple of cylinders and then decided not to fire on any at all. Spark at all plugs but only cylinder 3 plug was ‘wet’ with fuel. I’m guessing I have dislodged some crud and bunged up the carbs so yet again I’ll remove them and give a good clean and re-synch. Plugs were very sooty too.
I don’t have a vacuum gauge
14
« on: March 14, 2025, 07:09:32 PM »
I took the bike out for its first run today - a short trip up and down the hill apposite our house - maybe a mile and half max. the bike seemed to handle well, nothing fell off, lights worked, brakes worked too although the single front disc is not quite as effective as the Brembos on the front of my Triumph Tiger. 4 into 1 Delkevic sounded good and so far no oil or fuel leaks to be seen. However - major throttle hanging problem quickly became apparent.
When I got the bike I completely stripped the carbs, cleaned all parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, and carefully checked all jets etc for blockages. I have re-set the needle heights recently (2nd notch from the top/blunt end); carefully bench synched the carbs. Inlet rubbers are new, manifold rubbers are new. Original air cleaner box/plenum is fitted with a new air filter. Throttle cables are new and I have checked that there is not tension in the throttle cables when throttle is 'off'. Mixture screws are 1 turn out on all carbs.
Is there a routine to follow for diagnosing hanging throttle somebody can point me at please?
Thanks, Mike
15
« on: March 13, 2025, 09:43:07 PM »
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