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Messages - Murf
1
« on: April 17, 2025, 11:42:24 PM »
Was the Philpotts quote just for straightening the stanchions or rechrome as well, £290 seems a lot just to straighten them. I saw Philpotts straighten stanchions on a Henry Cole show, it took about 3 minutes using a machine. Many Stanchions on old bikes have slight bends, often just the weight of the bike being on them for years and general use. How much gap do yours show when rolled on a flat surface eg kitchen work top. Another option could be after market stanchions.
2
« on: April 14, 2025, 10:37:59 PM »
Thanks for all your efforts to keep it all working, I imagine it is quite a stressful thing to do,
it certainly would be for me, especially as nothing would ever work again😁.
3
« on: April 07, 2025, 10:46:47 PM »
I had the same, “Site Suspendedâ€
message, must have been around 9:30-10:00 when I tried.
4
« on: February 24, 2025, 11:36:10 AM »
In reply to the original post
What an absolute piss take, a real “these tossers will buy anything†attitude. Some of his aftermarket stuff is getting that way as well, makes me want to stop buying anything from him.
Hope I got the punctuation in the right place, probably not. Makes me laugh when someone criticises a post for bad spelling and grammar and I haven’t even noticed anything wrong😂😂😂😂😂
But I do also agree with Ted, if it’s a professional thing it should be correct.
5
« on: February 24, 2025, 11:02:15 AM »
Hi all I am normally on the 550 section but I am just rebuilding the top end of a 400/4 for a friend.
The barrel has been rebored to 0.5mm oversize and I am using DS pistons. I tend to work in Thousands of an inch so all following measurments are it thou. I have given 0.001†bore clearance for pistons and I am just setting piston ring gaps. As the rings came I have approx 0.007 gap for top and second ring, the spec in the manual is 0.006 to 0.014 so they are in spec but at the tight end, I would tend to open the gaps a bit more maybe to 0.008 or 0.009. Maybe I am being a bit cautious my thoughts are to stop any chance of the rings binding if the engine gets really hot. I would be interested to know what people who have experience building these engines have used with good results. If you work in metric that is ok I can convert any measurement. Thanks
6
« on: January 27, 2025, 12:08:51 AM »
There is a lot of work and money in building a wheel so I would always go for stainless spokes because they don’t discolour. The old zinc plated spokes lasted well but new ones don’t seem to have the same corrosion resistance. Just my opinion and I guess genuine Honda or DID spokes might be ok.
7
« on: January 26, 2025, 11:51:24 PM »
Yes good idea,
I had not thought about hard chroming the journals as a way to save a hard to find camshaft.
Fortunately the journals on my cam are ok as are the bearings in the head, at least sometimes was ok.
8
« on: January 26, 2025, 05:37:03 PM »
In practical terms can’t really Regrind the cam journals because the cam journals run directly in bearings formed in the aluminium of the cylinder head and there are no shell bearings, so no possibility of using oversized bearings.
Now I am not saying it isn’t possible to line bore the bearings in the head out to a larger diameter, then find or make some shell bearings to fit, because I met someone that had done this on a CBX 1000 sprint bike that he he campaigned many years ago. But the cost is going to be more than finding a head with good bearings.
9
« on: January 24, 2025, 12:52:47 PM »
I am not sure what was done to mine, but in general I think it depends on the depth of the wear, if it is shallow then they can just Regrind the lobe and keep costs down. In terms of hardening again I think it depends on how deep the damage is. If the damage is deep then they can add metal and Regrind. It’s good to know the cam can be saved.
10
« on: January 24, 2025, 12:03:15 PM »
As with just about everything else on the 550 the camshaft was knackered with a lot of wear on the lobes. Finding a good used one seems impossible with all the ones I saw for sale being either as bad or worse than the one I had. I decided to see if it could be reground and contacted Newman Cams who were really helpful and good to deal with.
I have just got the cam back from them and they have done a fantastic job, the cam is as new. The cost including return postage was £159 which I think is very good. Especially when you consider what people are trying to sell knackered used camshafts for.
I had a standard profile reground on the cam. I haven’t used the cam yet but from my dealing with them, the quality of their work and great packing of the returned cam I feel I can definitely recommend Newman Cams.
Photo of cam in the cylinder head is of cam when I first stripped the engine. I am sure the wear mostly on one side of the cam lobes was caused by the badly worn rocker shaft mountings which cause the cam follower to contact the cam lobe on an angle, putting all the pressure and wear on one side. I had 3 very bad shafts in the rocker box. For the rebuild I have sourced a later rocker box which has the locked shafts to eliminate the problem.
11
« on: January 23, 2025, 10:04:27 AM »
Ted
The CBX 1000 Z twin shock comstars are definitely anodised, and it is easy to tell they are, that is what I based my reply on, however maybe not all comstars on different models were. So I am sorry if the info I gave you is not relevant to your wheels.
12
« on: January 22, 2025, 10:03:01 AM »
Forgot to say, some people have stripped the anodising off with something like oven cleaner and polished the wheels. Not for me, I hate just washing and giving them a quick polish, never mind having to really set to and polish them.
13
« on: January 22, 2025, 09:54:44 AM »
What to do with tatty comstars is a regular topic in CBX clubs . I assume yours are original style coms and not reversed coms. Original coms are anodised and in general practical terms cannot be taken apart and re anodised although some claim to have done this. Putting aside the risk involved in dismantling and re anodising a comstar I would think it would be far cheaper to find and buy a really good set. Therefore an option that is often used is to find some better ones, they are around.
You can paint them and I have seen some really good painted ones that are hard to distinguish from standard. I imagine a two pack paint would give longest lasting finish. I wouldn’t recommend powder coating because you shouldn’t really grit blast them. This is due to the grit particles getting in the joints where the spokes join the hubs and rims and causing wear due to any slight movement when in use.
Soda blasting could work in that it might just act to polish up the anodising, I have not heard of it being used so it could be an interesting experiment.
You can get a conversion to turn comstars into spoked wheels, I have had a pair done and they come out really well, there are a few CBXs with these and they look good.
14
« on: January 21, 2025, 12:57:56 PM »
I nearly placed an order with NRP as they have some 103 jets (just listed as made in Japan) but they have such terrible feed back of late that I didn’t bother. I will give Allen’s a call and see what they have. David Silver did have 100 keyester jets, if I go aftermarket then I will buy all four so they match.
I can then put my 2 100 and 2 115 jets that came with the bike in my hall of horrors, this bike has added more exhibits than the 500 Triumph did, which I had hoped was impossible. 😢😂
15
« on: January 21, 2025, 11:15:30 AM »
Thanks
That tells me it is very easy to get things very wrong trying to drill out your own jets. 😄
It’s a pity Keihin don’t still make the jets I need and a pity after market copiers can’t copy very well.
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