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Messages - CMXCol
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« on: December 14, 2025, 03:47:23 PM »
Update
Yes it was the gearbox clutch works fine now gears change snoothly engine revs stay constant when clutch is pulled in same clutch no modifications to that. Rode it around the block first ride. Balance chain was in good condition the bike had only done 14000 when I got it but it a bit rusty and tatty 600 quid so to be expected. It needed a rebore though as the barrel had rusted a bit I think it had been lying around for a while in a shed. Now it's just getting the riding position better I think I need to move the rearset footpegs forward a bit will need to make some new plates for mounting them but ally flat bar is reasonably cheap 100mm wide. Also need to decrease the angle on the clip ons a little so they're a bit straighter but all the engine issues are sorted. Enclosed picture of the nearly finished project. Thanks for your help!
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« on: December 02, 2025, 04:53:17 PM »
Got the issue definitely gear box there are two problems shown red arrowed see attached image
1.The gear selector fork arrowed is not standard I have one off a spare shaft and that one looks like the one on the left not th eone arrowed the correct one. 2.The split ring is missing off the bearing I had to order one from CMSNL only place I could find one its a common classic honda part the 400/4 uses it as well
When I changed the selector fork and reassembled the gear change is smooth when I turn the drive shaft by hand and the shift selectorr shaft has little play clockwise or anti clockwise. I also suspect this missing split ring may be affecting the clutch as this shaft has the clutch on it so any axial play even a small bit may have abn effect all that was holding this shaft in place was the clamping force of the two gearbox case halves. Onc eI get the split ring I will rebuild it it'll take a few days from Holland.
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« on: November 30, 2025, 04:14:45 PM »
Update
The selecter drum see attached pic with gear selector cap in neutral position it appears to have a lot of play on it. Clockwise or anticlockwise about 10 degrees i.e noise it makes a dunk dunk sort of noise, LOL Clutch test on stand no dragging so it's likely not that. I think the gear selector forks are either damaged or incorrectly fitted somehow or the drum is worn or possible a shaft bearing or the selector rings on the shaft it takes a bit of effort to get it to change gear fortunately I have some spares for these items and a main shaft in good condition so it's looking like I'll need to split the gearbox and check it out. A few days work I'll post the results once I have got it split.
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« on: November 29, 2025, 04:15:43 PM »
Laverda Dave and McCabe
I will try both and get back with the results I am beggining to think it may be a selector issue as I can push the bike in 2nd with the clutch pulled in there is a lttile resistance far more than in neutral but it's not too difficult to push.
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« on: November 29, 2025, 02:23:55 PM »
New cable it moves freely so not that but thanks
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« on: November 29, 2025, 01:46:31 PM »
Hi all
I have a problem with the clutch I think it is the clutch Symptoms are A gear grind going into 2nd or first from neutral I can 'force it in but I don't want to do that in case it causes damage to gears. Engine revs markedly drop when clutch is applied.
What I have tried
Changing the springs Changing the friction plates Steel clutch plates are flat as an accurate stright edge no warp Clutch is correctly assembled
I have tried two differnet clutches the original and the replacmenet which was a second hand spare. Both baskets had some grooving on the basket faces but not too bad so I gently cleaned slight burrs off.
I suppose it is possible both baskets were bad? Oil is correct 10/40 Oil level is correct. Clutch is assembled correctly as per Haynes manual. I have tried adjusting the cable up and down
I am stumped any ideas what else it could be? Is it possibly a gearbox issue? Any ideas or if anyone has seen this behaviour before appreciated! It's a head scratcher indeed?
7
« on: November 09, 2024, 06:03:30 PM »
OK
Fixed it. The issue was very difficult to pin down I had to rebuild the gearbox twice to find it. On the balancing weight end of the clutch shaft opposite the clutch there is a needle roller bearing it has a thrust washer, (red arrow) the bearing outer shell also has a hole which locates on a dowel pin (blue arrow) in the bearing mount. The thrust washer pushes into a thin housing, a thin recess, just before the bearing mount with the dowel. If this thrust washer is not seated correctly even with the casings closed it can cause the bearing to not quite seat correctly now that doesn't expose itself until the engine is put in gear, any gear, the very slight misalignment causes the gear train to lock I noticed even when the gear selector was in the neutral position it was still locked in gear, the drive sprocket wouldn't even turn making it impossible to turn with the kick start in neutral once the gearbox locked. Picture of offending items "arrowed" attached, just one little washer caused all of that grief.
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« on: November 02, 2024, 07:50:40 PM »
Laverda Dave
Yes agreed I'm sure all the shaft dots were aligned correcty. I am going to have to strip it all down again I think only way to check things here. Thanks for the replies.
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« on: November 02, 2024, 07:47:52 PM »
Thanks for the reply. I am beginning to suspect the lock up is occuring in the gearbox somewhere this will invlolve a complete strip down of the engine again. I did rebuild the crankcase/gearbox. Just seems so bizzare though that the engine "will" change gear when turning which tends ot suggest it's not the gearbox. The clutch turns with the engine as well. Also it still locks up with no plates in the basket. It is not on the crank side either the valves are lifting and closing correctly on TDC the cam chain is not stuck it turns over smoothly. Just cannot figure out what this is. Rebuilt quite a few engines and never ever had this issue before. I'll go for the complete strip down that's the only way I would find anything wrong I think. The only possibility I can think of is there's a woodruff key stripped on a gear wheel and it's spinning or jammed somewhere on the shaft that holds the clutch that's the only possible thing I can think of.
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« on: November 02, 2024, 06:13:11 PM »
With the basket on it locks the kickstarter will not move.
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« on: November 02, 2024, 06:10:42 PM »
And another showing it will swing alright?
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« on: November 02, 2024, 06:09:51 PM »
Thanks for that howevere I'm not so sure the kick start has a problem at all . For some reason I can't post videos it crashes this site for me. So here are two pictures showing the kickstart will swing when the kicker is pushed without the basket on it locks it only locks when the basket is on. But the engine turns when the basket is on. I can get gears when the basket is on
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« on: November 02, 2024, 03:06:20 PM »
No it doesn't work with the cranks case off either. If I turn the shaft the clutch basket goes on to via splines with its nut it turns freely but it doent turn the engine it just spins.
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« on: November 02, 2024, 02:30:10 PM »
Hi All
I have a strange problem I have never encountered before. Having just rebuilt the engine crankcase and top end something does not make sense to me. Here it is. Engine turnns on crank with a socket wrench OK. All gears work neutral can be attained. When the engine turns the clutch basket turns with it with or wothout the clutch plates inserted. If I try to turn the engine with the kickstarter it is locked. If I remove the basket the kick start mechanism/shaft turns fine and turns the drive gear that connects to the oil pump which turns and would if fitted connect to the clutch basket gear. This also happens if I fit the clutch cover and bearing with the push pin fitted All clutch plates are within spec thickness. Seems odd? Any ideas? Anyone come across this before? Is something going wrong in the gear box?
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