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Messages - Grewth
1
« on: June 24, 2026, 06:46:49 PM »
If it makes you happy, and gets the job finished, it's always worth it.
Personally, I like to stick to dead common bikes with a plentiful supply of cheap spares.
Plus the fact I really love the CB750 design anyway.
Let's face it, if your rusted tank was off a CB750, you'd probably just replace it with one of those excellent Yamiya ones.
2
« on: June 23, 2026, 10:08:23 PM »
Thanks for all the replies !
Yeah, I'm not a great fan of tank liners, but I really don't think that bare steel is a viable option anymore.
Ethanol absorbs water on contact, so as soon as it's exposed to humidity in the air, there's a corrosion risk.
Now electroplating the inside of the tank is something I hadn't really considered.
Basically you just need to turn the inside of your tank into a little electroplating vat.
I'm sure there are complications to be overcome , but the basic idea is sound.
3
« on: June 22, 2026, 07:39:48 PM »
I should add that I'm not just posting this to pass the time.
I've just bought a custom tank for one of my bikes - brand new, all the way from Taiwan.
I'm thinking that I should be sorting the inside of the tank properly, before I start painting the outside.
4
« on: June 22, 2026, 07:36:17 PM »
What's the most durable tank liner on the market now ?
As in available to buy in the UK, not just California.
I've bought a good few tanks with the remains of failed liners sloshing around inside.
They all claim to be the best.
All claim to be Ethanol proof.
But which ones are actually bulletproof ?
Will anything last ten years plus ?
I realise that this might be like starting a "best oil " thread, but I might just gain something useful from it.
5
« on: June 05, 2026, 07:54:46 PM »
I'm sorry to say that I'm tied up with a whole truckload of CB750 stuff at the moment.
The 550 motor is sulking in a corner with a mixture of acetone and ATF in its bores.
I don't think that it's going to free up somehow, but no harm trying.
I'll probably pull it apart in the winter.
Meanwhile, the summer is slipping away from me and I've got two CB750's that both run, but I ain't got brakes or electrics sorted.
6
« on: June 03, 2026, 10:43:14 PM »
Thanks for that !
TBH I didn't even know that CMSNL did spoke kits.
I have to confess to having a very negative attitude to CMSNL.
I found their website an absolute pig to navigate (maybe that's just me).
Everything that I was trying to find was out of stock.
Then when I did finally find something that WAS in stock, and ordered it, it turned out to be out of stock after all.
I won't be buying anything off them unless I'm absolutely desperate
7
« on: June 01, 2026, 12:41:34 PM »
Many thanks for that !
I'm only asking because I've aquired a pair of rims which although quite presentable, don't really justify the expense of fancy stainless spokes
8
« on: May 31, 2026, 04:49:47 PM »
Anyone fitted the pattern replica spoke kits from Silvers ?
What is your assessment of the quality and the durability of the finish please.
I know that Honda's originals were only plated steel, but the finish lasted for years before they started rusting.
I don't want spend good money on something that will be rusting in twelve months time
9
« on: May 08, 2026, 09:28:33 PM »
Many thanks for all the advice.
I'm thinking about the wire from a wire brush to start with.
The cylinder is totally stripped down, I was lucky enough to find a pair of circlip pliers that were long enough and thin enough to work.
10
« on: May 05, 2026, 05:55:02 AM »
There are two small ports on my F1 front master cylinder that allow the brake fluid to enter the piston bore.
The little tiny one appears to be blocked.
I've tried poking it with a sewing needle etc, but so far no luck.
Thinking about drilling it now, but unsure of what size to drill.
Anyone know ?
I'm thinking too big a hole is going to have a bad effect on the master cylinder.
11
« on: April 18, 2026, 02:29:42 PM »
ER. Getting the master apart!!
I usually resort to the gas cooker hob for this job. A bit drastic but the troublesome circlip usually surrenders a lot sooner when given a good roasting first.
12
« on: April 17, 2026, 11:29:18 PM »
Many thanks for all the replies.
I've been doing some research myself and ended up buying a pair of replacement inserts and a M9 x1 tap set.
Then I tried drilling out the sheared bleed nipple on the F1 caliper I'd stashed at work, and it was an was an absolute nightmare.
So now that caliper body is tapped M10 x1 thanks to a 9mm drill and a tap borrowed from a workmate.
Got to order two M10 x 1 inserts now, another £11, but still pretty small beer really.
So now at least I know that I can use an M10 insert in a F1 caliper.
Hopefully everything will be pretty straightforward after this.
New stainless piston, new seals, new lines, master cylinder repair kit.
What could possibly go wrong ?
13
« on: April 16, 2026, 06:18:06 PM »
I found quite a nice looking caliper for my F1, piston came out easily.
No such luck with the bleed nipple.
Roasted the caliper body on the gas hob, my usual trick, the nipple did unscrew (well sort of), but ripped the thread out of the caliper body on its way out.
Oh well, that's better than the nipple shearing off in the caliper.
Now I'm thinking maybe I could drill oversized and tap for an oversized nipple.
Or maybe a helicoil insert (although I really don't like them) ?
Is there any economically viable repair possible ?
Or do I have a lump of scrap aluminium ?
14
« on: April 04, 2026, 06:42:28 PM »
"Owner kept the original frame and crankcase, but an unscrupulous scrap man took them away"
Absolutely brilliant !
I think that I'd rather dangle my genitals into a tank full of Piranhas
15
« on: March 24, 2026, 05:35:35 PM »
My experience with fuel tap repair kits is that they don't fit properly and don't work.
Many years ago I bought a repair kit for the dreaded Suzuki GT750 Vacuum Fuel Tap.
It needed more vacuum than the manifold delivered, at least at large throttle openings.
Loads of fun sorting that one out, ended up with a NOS genuine tap instead.
Buy cheap buy twice ?
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