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Messages - Rayzerman
1
« on: October 02, 2026, 03:27:02 PM »
Maybe try a vacuum via the bulb port??
2
« on: August 08, 2026, 05:41:45 PM »
Not bad, I have similar money in my 350F....... it's for the love of the game, I tell ya!
3
« on: July 18, 2026, 11:19:52 PM »
It would be interesting to know what they actually replace...... you see, in the early parts of this story, I read it was incorrect honing of the cylinder bores..... so, I wonder if they're replacing the barrels at the same time as new pistons and rings.
I am kinda disappointed in this...... was hoping the bike would make it to North America very soon. Usually it's a year or two delayed intro here, so I suppose by then all should be sorted out.
4
« on: June 20, 2026, 01:40:15 PM »
5
« on: June 04, 2026, 12:41:17 PM »
6
« on: May 21, 2026, 04:17:00 PM »
On some of these vintage Hondas, in the case of the switch being a grounding circuit, on some switches there's a metal part that grounds on the handlebars, and you may have to "fix" it by making sure it does make good contact with the bars.... on others, there were wires inside the handlebars.
I imagine you could turn the ignition switch on and test there is 12V already at the solenoid, in which case, the switch will be the ground circuit???
Regardless, I'd disassemble the switch and give it a good clean while you're in there.
7
« on: May 20, 2026, 08:32:45 PM »
Many seem to have difficulties with these 350's.... I've had my own share of grief with getting these carbs bench sync'd then set properly on the bike.... by chance has anyone decided to go up a size on the idle jets? And of course, did it help or hinder?
8
« on: May 17, 2026, 03:15:29 PM »
Added a note to my post above.
9
« on: May 17, 2026, 03:06:18 PM »
You guys are mentioning lacquer.... don't you mean clearcoat? I would paint the tank first, then clearcoat. Let dry for a few days, then sand your clear with 1000 grit. Apply decals, then two coats of clear over the whole thing.....
Edit add - Lacquer thinners are harsh, may react with base layers.... I use Duplicolor 1K clear right over the paint, right after painting, but I use Duplicolor paints also. There are 2K clears (harsher) which have a hardener you mix in and spray with a gun... best let your base layers dry and cure out the solvents for a few days (a week). Then of course, sanding and your last two coats of clear.
Note, I am not a professional painter, just watched many videos and learned the hard way... still learning.
10
« on: May 10, 2026, 01:55:46 PM »
For touch-up years ago on my Magna, I used barbecue paint that came in a squeeze bottle.
11
« on: May 09, 2026, 05:15:43 PM »
You could try running a new ground wire from the screw on the bulb socket directly back to the nearest (green) ground connection, thus bypassing any potential issue with the grounding by the indicator mounts....
12
« on: May 09, 2026, 05:11:46 PM »
What I do here..... ask a body shop who they use as their paint supplier. Take the original paint code or formula with you, they may be able to match it up... very likely, it's a tri-stage paint, two base coats and clearcoat. If you want a single-stage, you can get close using their paint chips. They can also scan the original part..... My folks can make me up a spray can if it's a small job.
Finish up with a clearcoat if you want more depth and durability/UV resistance.
13
« on: May 07, 2026, 01:03:38 PM »
Here are the two RE 5's I mentioned earlier.....
14
« on: May 04, 2026, 02:02:03 PM »
How is the tank condition on the inside? The coating may have been an epoxy primer, which likely is best not stripped off. I wouldn't do anything without first doing a de-rust with EvapORust and verifying no leaks from the inside out. If none and tank cleans up inside OK, then I'd go ahead and tackle the outside..... filler if needed, a good sanding with say 320 grit and a self-etching primer.
15
« on: April 24, 2026, 01:31:53 PM »
I have no long term experience to share, but after new points and properly setting timing, I installed one of Hondaman's electronic ignitions. It essentially uses the points, but you disconnect the condensers, and they are always there should the electronic ignition ever fail (doubtful). It seems good, things are a little more crisp if that's a good description.
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