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Messages - mickwinf
1
« on: May 28, 2026, 03:19:04 PM »
Hi Julie, the screw was sitting about 2 mm off its seat even with max torque. Ended up putting old one back and so far so good.
2
« on: May 28, 2026, 01:29:04 PM »
500 four petrol tap, the type with 2 screws holding it to the tank inside the sediment bowl. the one on the bike was refurbed with a kit from nurse Julie and did not leak externally but always had a small flow even when turned off. from previous posts on here I know the seals around the screws are difficult to seal completely, Julie supplies dowty washers which seemed to be an answer but not sure now. The honda ones are stupid price and are now just a standard looking fibre washer. anyway, my carbs started to overflow when left overnight so I thought the steady flow must overwhelm the float needles so decided on a new tap. Not wanting to risk a pattern part I ordered a genuine Honda item along with new washers at great expense. tried fitting today and leaked really badly from the join from tank to tap. After some investigation i have realised the screws are not pulling the tap tight enough and the screws are not fully down although they feel tight and i tried without tap and they screw in all the way no problem. I am completly baffled so having a brew to think. any wisdom out there?
3
« on: May 17, 2026, 04:40:19 PM »
if I am understanding your question correctly the problem is the black panel on the side where it joins the other colour with the pinstripe? I would think you would do colour first, then mask for the black panels and paint the black, this might leave a ridge so flat and then clear coat. then apply stripe, and clear again. as mentioned leave each stage to dry for a few days inbetween. My tank was easier as all black! Menno is the man to ask for sure.
4
« on: May 15, 2026, 09:52:11 AM »
I had to ask my neighbour to help me lift it up as can't do it on my own.
5
« on: May 14, 2026, 02:46:27 PM »
Pic of tank
6
« on: May 14, 2026, 02:43:30 PM »
was working on Lazerus the 500 four last week, I had to re-paint the fuel tank due to some reaction under the laquer and had a friend who has the gear for 2-pack said he would do it for me. Unfortunately he seems to have lost interest so took it to a local paint shop. they quoted £500 for tank and side covers which I was a bit shocked by and could not do it for ages. so did it myself again with spraycans and turned out nice, so decided to treat it to new badges and cap. Stripes came from Pici of this forum, badges from nurse Julie and cap from David Silvers. Waiting on side panel badges to finish off. also fitted a new kickstart rubber again from Julie, quite amusing it has "kickstart" embossed into it. Futher to another post about squealing brake, i chamfered the pads and cleaned the paint off the edges, then silicone grease on moving parts and rear of pad. so far so good, no noise at all. And the mishap? taking it off the ramp I left the side stand down which caught on the ramp and I dropped it over. first thought was oh no! my tank, but it was unscathed. Unfortunately it fell on the rear mudguard against the bench and dented it although i have bent it back it still has a small dent. bugger.
7
« on: April 08, 2026, 12:20:27 PM »
Depends on exact model, f1 and r2 join in a box under tank and others in headlamp.
8
« on: April 03, 2026, 11:29:33 PM »
I might have a footrest and brake lever will have a look.
9
« on: April 03, 2026, 11:34:04 AM »
just found this pic of my f2 before resoration
10
« on: April 03, 2026, 11:31:27 AM »
towsejames, looks like you have k3 footrest and brake lever and kickstart on your f frame. the f1 and f2 had a folding footrest that mounts on a stub on the frame, you can see a nut just under the swingarm bolt. the k3 has the footrest on the main engine mount bolt and is quite long to give space for the exhausts, and the f kickstart does have a big offset to clear. as oddjob mentioned the f2 has a flat pedal to help with clearence but still often fouls slightly.
11
« on: March 28, 2026, 04:04:16 PM »
here you go look just under the rh indicator and you can see the horn
12
« on: March 28, 2026, 03:55:20 PM »
no thats where the coils mount. horn mounts on a small bracket with 2 screw holes in front of downtubes, just out of sight on your pic. will see if i can find a pic
13
« on: March 15, 2026, 12:26:11 PM »
Am I missing something here? If the 500 with standard sprockets needs a 98 link, then the 550 uses a bigger sprocket on the rear and all other dimensions are the same then a longer chain is required due to the bigger diameter? Also the amount of adjustment available is a factor.
14
« on: March 13, 2026, 04:29:40 PM »
deltarider that agrees with what i said, i changed from a 37t to a 34t and had to shorten from 100 links to 98.
15
« on: March 13, 2026, 12:09:32 PM »
Depends on amount of teeth on sprockets. I had a 550 rear sprocket on my 500 which needed a 100 links but now changed to the correct 500 one and chain needed a link removing to fit.
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