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Messages - Oddjob
1
« on: Today at 01:18:08 AM »
A UK F2 should be wearing 069a carbs. However I’ve known a few now where the carbs have been exchanged with a European restorer whose name escapes me right now. He has sent 022a carbs instead of 069a carbs not thinking there may be a difference. I think the 022a were fitted to the 550k models Europe got.
We’ll know more when you find the number stamping.
2
« on: October 09, 2026, 03:28:56 PM »
What markings are the original needles stamped with? You may need a magnifying glass to see.
Not sure why you have 022a carbs as those are european carbs iirc. What model is yours?
3
« on: October 07, 2026, 04:10:23 PM »
Experience has shown me that replacing difficult to get at items with aftermarket products is a mistake. Sometimes they are as good as genuine but more often than not they aren’t. Stem seals are a good example. They are hard to get at, involve major work and expense due to having to replace other gaskets and seals for example. So do it right and do it once is my advice. Buy genuine if available. Ask on site, a genuine head set normally includes the stem seals, a lot of them go unused as they only wanted the head and base gaskets for example, like changing the piston rings. I used to have loads lying around for the 500/550, maybe someone else has loads of 750 ones they’ll let you have foc or dirt cheap.
Viton not needed in that location so why bother.
4
« on: October 03, 2026, 11:38:20 PM »
It’s well known if you leave the ignition on and the coils energised they are prone to burning out Ted. It’s not common as it requires some time to happen but it does happen now and then. Other than the leads they are almost indestructible.
5
« on: October 01, 2026, 11:13:16 PM »
You seem to forget that the K0 version had different switchgear DR. They got slated in the UK bike mags for all the lights going out accidentally when switching from high to low so Honda altered that by fitting a separate light switch and calling it the K1. To operate that light switch needed you to remove your left hand off the bars, now don’t say ride with the lights on even during daylight as that just wasn’t done back then, in fact I’m fairly sure the police would have pulled you over and other motorists would have been flashing you to let you know they were on back then.
We also would NEVER had switched to reserve before it started hicupping as that was your warning to start looking for somewhere to fill up. Never run out of fuel on a bike with reserve but done it a couple of times with ones with a fuel gauge, even one that flashed to let you know.
As for choke, full choke to start in the winter or early morning and then half choke till the end of the street before dumping it off as I rode. Quite a few one armed riders around, you are safer with two hands but it’s not essential all the time. Ever scratched yourself riding? Or altered your visor? Or even just wiped water off your visor so you can see? All done one handed.
6
« on: September 28, 2026, 10:49:59 PM »
From all accounts there is a Q&A on the superbike factory website which specifically deals with vehicles in for service etc. Says to contact the administrators at sbk@kr8.co.uk with proof of ownership and they’ll store the bike securely until it’s resolved. It’s question 6 on the q&a section.
7
« on: September 25, 2026, 06:38:03 PM »
Almost my idea exactly Neil. I went for 0.8mm copper sheet though as I wanted some substance in the plate. I’ll drill a small hole where it makes contact with the rotor and fit a small copper rivet there which should help with any wear issues. Just waiting for the copper sheet to arrive, already have the copper rivets for some reason.
8
« on: September 25, 2026, 05:30:57 PM »
Oil filter bolt torque is 19.5 - 23.8 ft lbs.
9
« on: September 25, 2026, 03:00:18 PM »
Got to have some left of the plate after the bend for that to be a solution Johnny I’d imagine. I’m looking at replacing the entire plate.
10
« on: September 24, 2026, 10:16:41 PM »
I have an idea on how to fix a broken lug off the rotor and also an idea of how to fix a broken contact plate off the switch. Give me a few days to find some broken ones and I’ll post a video on how to do them.
11
« on: September 23, 2026, 01:21:20 AM »
I never changed the condensers either. Points yes, they were cheap back then, especially if you got trade discount. I must have kept quite a few of them as I found quite a few sets of points in my Snap On toolbox the other week. Still usable as well with a bit of work and a decent file.
12
« on: September 22, 2026, 05:24:45 PM »
Not sure how you are attempting to time the engine up. Do 1-4 first, find the part of the timing ng cycle where the points gap is biggest, now adjust the points so they are opening around 12-13 thou. Lock the points at that setting. Now turn the whole plate so they are opening light comes on at the F mark, lock the plate. No do the same with 2-3, gap around 12-13 thou. Then move the backplate those points are mounted on to get them to open on the F mark. That should be it. With no standard points you need to go smaller on the gap to get 2-3 to time up.
13
« on: September 21, 2026, 07:43:56 PM »
I spoke to someone who knew someone who worked at the Honda motorcycling training centre, Swindon I believe it was at the time. They would dismantle a new model to train mechanics but when it was at the end of it's life cycle it was thrown into a skip. My bike at the time was the CB1300 and there was one sat in a skip behind the centre. The trainers weren't supposed to take any parts but they turned a blind eye to it so long as it wasn't a big part like the engine for instance. I bought a LOAD of parts for a pittance, like the injector bank which costs around 2K to buy, all the switchgear handlebars, master cylinders etc to name just a few. Think I paid £100 for the lot. There is waste everywhere, it's seems a shame but that's the way they want it.
14
« on: September 20, 2026, 01:44:40 PM »
If it's a genuine nut then why is it misaligned when torqued up? Something not right there Ted.
So I looked on CMS because why would Honda used a flanged nut and a washer? I suspected the washer had been added later and shouldn't be there but no it's shown on the parts list. However look at it's specs, it's a 15.2mm x 25mm, why 15.2mm if the nut is 14mm. Is it meant to sit inside the fork slider not outside? The spindle is shouldered, does the washer fit the spindle on the shoulder or wider part. If so it's most likely meant to go against the speedo drive. Have a look and see if that might be the case.
15
« on: September 18, 2026, 01:58:50 PM »
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