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Messages - kent400
1
« on: September 28, 2026, 10:27:44 PM »
As the machine was serviced and ready for collection an invoice would have been raised for the cost of the work. The administrator should have the company records and if those are held on a computer system access to that.
The cost of the service is owed to the company so the administrator would need to recover that and that assumes that all records are available. Effectively the lien is transferred to the administrator.
The liquidation can take months to complete.
2
« on: September 27, 2026, 10:48:53 PM »
I was employed by a large finance company for many years who were involved with financing cars, heavy goods vehicles and coaches.
These vehicles were subject to Hire Purchase agreement and lease agreements. When a company enters liquidation a liquidator is assigned and this has happened here. The liquidator has to identify what assets are the property of the company so any assets subject to finance agreements are not assets. If the machine is the subject to a finance agreement contact the finance company
Exactly the same applies here, the machine is not an asset of the company in liquidation so in this case the owner may need proof of p ownership and the V5 is not proof of ownership. The original invoice for the machine will help here but where this could become 'tricky', there could be machines sold to the dealership by the owner but the dealership would need to have advised DVLA immediately so a refund of the road tax can be made. Most dealerships can do this online.
If you go to to the dealership website you can see who the liquidators are and what efforts they make to ensure any machines that are not assets of the company. See note one on the website. The liquidators have engaged an agent, these people are often most unhelpful
and so make contact with the Liquidator and check on the DVLA website to check the present status for possible keeper change and if the VED is still current.
Hope this helps
3
« on: September 22, 2026, 10:23:00 PM »
Has anyone here had this letter or any idea where some of us will be going [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
4
« on: July 07, 2026, 09:57:25 PM »
You can put a MPH face on a km/h speedo but the distace counters will still read in kms as the counters are gear driven from the cable drive spindle.
5
« on: March 12, 2026, 07:50:05 PM »
Have you thought of chemical blacking? I use that for gauge dial face scews and some gauge bezels. it's easy as it's a three part process. Ceaning solution, blacking one and oil solution. Items came out more or less matt black. Not sure how well it would work on bolts but worth a bit of research.
6
« on: January 19, 2026, 06:10:26 PM »
I too use Gateros and just add a few drops of their maintenance chemical if the the plating gets dull. Getting the amps right and the temperature at 25c. Bags on the anodes helps to keep the electrolyte clean and filter it after each use.
Fair to say the vinegar does stink a bit so I just keep it out of the way and it does take a couple of days to dissolve the rust. Some parts might take longer especially something like that shown in the image that's in it now. The river it was found in has not been disclosed!
7
« on: January 18, 2026, 08:45:00 PM »
I started re-plating parts a few years ago when the local plater ceased trading. A bit of a learning curve and research but now I get good results. Although most parts I'm re-plating are unseen.
The procedure place the parts in vinegar if rusty, that dissolves the rust and will also remove zinc plating. That can take a few days, then into brick acid and rinse. Dry off with heat gun. Some flash rust can appear.
Now ready to plate after a dip in caustic soda, a rinse and a dip in brick cleaner followed by a rinse. Now in the plating tank, It takes a bit of trial and error to set the amps correctly. Probably takes about half an hour on the larger bases and a bit less on smaller ones. Out of the tank, a rinse, into the passivate followed by a rinse. A drying cabinet would be ideal as despite a final rinse the passivate does sometimes leave slight stains.
8
« on: September 14, 2025, 09:32:18 PM »
The 550K1 model originally was fitted with either Seiki or ND gauges. I have seen both types fitted. The Seiki and the ND gauges are compleately a different design internally. As you mention you can't put ND faces on a Seiki gauge.
It might be a plan to post an image of the gauges and many on here will be able to tell you what gauges you have.
9
« on: June 01, 2025, 07:11:53 PM »
You can find washers in stainless but they are 17mm as opposed 19mm original and they are called spacer washers so the don't quite cover the grommet. It is essential that the correct spacer tube and correct thick washer is used to prevent compressing the cushion too much. The gauges should be flexible in their mounting plates and if compressed too much it defeats the object of cushion which is to insulate the gauges from vibration.
As for the securing nuts, they are as you found difficult find and I found some in B&Q but the were zinc plated. I re-plated them in bright zinc and that did improve their appearance.
Going back on the thread being quoted £60 to re-plate a couple of bases is way over the top. I was getting them done for a fiver each, fair to say however I had prepared them so they could go straight in the tank. The drawback was the trip there and back to get them done so now I re-plate them. Those done yesterday are shown in the image.
As for band re-fitting a tool incorporating a skate board bearing in a drill press can make a quite tidy job on the underside using the support you have for the gauge. The underside isn't too much of an issue as it can't be seen.
10
« on: May 23, 2025, 04:53:59 PM »
I still have quite a few gauges here and that's unusual this time of the year but they all get sorted within a reasonable time frame
11
« on: May 22, 2025, 08:39:03 AM »
That's a 400F tacho.
12
« on: March 31, 2025, 04:52:03 PM »
A thought on that, a computer mouse mat and a wad punch. The foam ones are 5 mm thick and although my largest wad punch is 19 mm one that size might do the job or maybe you can source a larger one.
13
« on: November 19, 2024, 06:22:49 PM »
I suspect the speedo is one of the Seiki large type, no point in spraying WD or whatever in the bulb apertures the noise is coming from the drive spindle housing and you could try some light oil in the housing. Ideally the speedo needs to come apart, the mechanism ultrasonically cleaned and lubricated at both ends
14
« on: November 04, 2024, 09:03:56 PM »
JB weld is still in two tubes but there seems only a few who stock that now. However can be found 'online'
15
« on: August 09, 2024, 08:54:19 PM »
Speedometers fitted to the 400 Fours marked to 130mph were only sold in the USA, UK models were marked to 120mph no idea why there's a difference. Internally both types are the same. Replica ones are only suitable for the F1 model as the F2 has a km/h scale in green on the dial face.
A few owners have been unhappy with the CB750F replica gauges, internally those are similar to Seiki gauges and nothing like the the original ND ones. Those are only suitable for later models with a side trip reset rather than those that have the rear reset.
Only a few weeks ago a never fitted CB750F tacho appeared, Marked ND with a dial face screw that had fallen out and obviously the screw hasn't been tightened when the gauge was assembled. In fact it wasn't an ND the mechanism it was a Seiki type. Obviously a replica masquerading as a genuine ND. Something to watch out for.
As for the replica 400F ones it will be interesting to hear owners views as time goes by.
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