Doms CB550F1 project

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Cart before the horse, less haste more speed, or plain old driving both rear wheel bearings home before putting the spacer in the hub!  😥☹️


*update, managed to drive the sprocket side bearing back out seemingly unharmed!

Not 100% certain but iirc there are two spacers in the rear hub, the long distance piece with the prongs plus the narrower one that fits into the left bearing. I assume you may have forgotten the smaller one.

[DomP]

Cart before the horse, less haste more speed, or plain old driving both rear wheel bearings home before putting the spacer in the hub!  😥☹️


*update, managed to drive the sprocket side bearing back out seemingly unharmed!

Not 100% certain but iirc there are two spacers in the rear hub, the long distance piece with the prongs plus the narrower one that fits into the left bearing. I assume you may have forgotten the smaller one.

Oh better than that Ted, I forgot both🤦‍♂️

[Bryanj]

You aint the first and wont be the last

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Cart before the horse, less haste more speed, or plain old driving both rear wheel bearings home before putting the spacer in the hub!  😥☹️


*update, managed to drive the sprocket side bearing back out seemingly unharmed!

Not 100% certain but iirc there are two spacers in the rear hub, the long distance piece with the prongs plus the narrower one that fits into the left bearing. I assume you may have forgotten the smaller one.

Oh better than that Ted, I forgot both🤦‍♂️

I will make no judgement here as I rode my 400 for a 100 miles before I discovered why it was down on power, popping & banging due to two wrongly connected plug leads.

[DomP]

I've now corrected my mistake, I'm thinking I need to replace the refitted bearing though.  When I assemble the hub on the axle (no spokes or rim yet) and rotate it it stops suddenly rather that running freely, I think either a knackered bearing from the pounding to remove it or I've pinched the inner races with the spacers up tight.  Quite a tricky set up this isn't it considering the tolerance in drifting in the bearings, one tap too many and the inner races are under too much tension.

[Bryanj]

The inners need to be up tight for the axle to tighten, think about it as you tighten the nut you are forcing everything together, its possible you damaged a race knocking the bearing out tacke the wheel out again stick a finger in the inner race(s) and rotate by hand

[DomP]

I think the inner race has been pinched, how the hell do you drive the bearing against the spacers without putting some preloaded on the bearing?

New bearing time...again maybe

*all sorted, I heated up the brake side bearing surround til very hot then knocked back the spacer from the socket side with an 18mm socket just enough to take the pressure of the inner race.  Free spins without notchyness.  Might have got away with that.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

TBH I would have thought it more likely that in drifting out the bearing your drift slipped off the outer race & distorted the metal bearing cage - easily done if the bearing is tight.

The tightening of the lock ring fixes the left side bearing (after you have previously fitted the right side bearing) Once assembled the spacers will give some preload to the inner races - this preload is limited as the right side bearing would be pushed out if it became excessive.

At least the above is how I see it in my head.

PS I am aslo often wrong.

[DomP]

Definitely not thankfully Ted, the hub spins silky smooth so the acid test will be once its used in anger.

[DomP]

Today's progress

[Bryanj]

Are you buiding the wheels yourself Dom, if so i have hints to make it easier

[Johnny4428]

Nice wok on the hubs there Dom!

[DomP]

Are you buiding the wheels yourself Dom, if so i have hints to make it easier

Indeed Bryan, including that front-wheel you've offered me😉  I've built my xs650 wheels before but more than welcome any tips mate

[Bryanj]

OK, this is the way i do it.
There are two different ends at the hub end in angle and depth. One is fitted inwards from the outside so you see the head at the hub, the othe is fitted outwards from the inside so you dont see the head, there are 20 of each.
Fit only the ones that go inwards and fit the rim using just these 20, 10 per side.
Get the wheel truded as best you can on just these 20 spokes not forgetting Honda spec is 1/8 for side to side and up and down, no doubt you will get it closer than that BUT dont try and true out the jump where the weld is.
After you have done this it is easy to fit the other spoke from inside to outside and fit then tighten.
Doing this you are only truing on half the spokes which is way easier

[Johnny4428]

Very good advice Bryan, and a very satisfying job to do. Last wheel I did I followed that advice from a previous post and it worked a treat.