CB550 Neutral Switch

[Neilw]

I've got the points/timing roughly done, so I can try and start the bike.

However, the start button does not work - the whole RH switch is new. I know the bike turns over by shorting the solenoid, so as part of the diagnostics I've got to the Neutral Switch, which doesn't seem to be working. When I dismantled the bike, I didn't note how the neutral switch went together, and now, in whatever configuration I try i can't get it to work.

Could someone post a pic of how it goes together? I know where the green/red wire goes.

Also, the Stator doesn't quite look the same as the one in the parts book; the tab bit is a bit smaller, like something has broken off, but I can't see what difference that would make.

Thanks for helping.

HA Ha just seen the doodle impression on the paper, it's not what it looks like, but apologies if anyone is offended lol.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Look as if the contact on the spring part of the neutral switch is broken off.

Look at a picture of the switch on CSML or Google it.

Test the solenoid, they can fail.

[Neilw]

Look as if the contact on the spring part of the neutral switch is broken off.

Look at a picture of the switch on CSML or Google it.

Test the solenoid, they can fail.

So does the broken-off bit need to make contact with the brass part of the neutral switch? Am I correct in thinking that if it touches the brass tab, it completes the circuit to neutral, and when it's just touching the plastic bit around the edge, the light goes out because it's in gear?  So i'd have to mount the switch part with the brass plate facing outward?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If you search Neutral Switch on this sites search facility there are pictures of it.

[Neilw]

I found a very useful video on YouTube that explained it perfectly.

I can see that the Switch has lost its locating tab and the stator has a broken contact. so no wonder it didn't work - however it was working before I dismantled the bike, somehow!

I've already had a quick search around, and these parts seem rarer than hen's teeth. Is there a way to repair the Stator, so I can create a contact point? I'm assuming I can glue some plastic onto the switch to create a locating tab.  Of course, the best option would be to replace both.

Anyone have any spares lurking :-)

[Bryanj]

Message Nurse Julie, Trigger did have some contacts etched out years ago and may have some left, you have the screw the wrong way round in the rotor and the tab is important as it locates the rotor to the selector drum.
I may have a spare rotor but not the stator, i sold my las nos one years ago.
They are the same on 500 four

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I bought a good used one from Roo, iirc it had been refurbished.

p/n 35752-323-000 neutral switch.

Not sure if CSML list them?

[Oddjob]

I have an idea on how to fix a broken lug off the rotor and also an idea of how to fix a broken contact plate off the switch. Give me a few days to find some broken ones and I’ll post a video on how to do them.

[Johnny4428]

I’ve repaired a couple of contact plates by soldering on a copper rivet head. Seems to work OK.

[Oddjob]

Got to have some left of the plate after the bend for that to be a solution Johnny I’d imagine. I’m looking at replacing the entire plate.

[Neilw]

Got to have some left of the plate after the bend for that to be a solution Johnny I’d imagine. I’m looking at replacing the entire plate.

Inspired by your good self, i decided to remove the two rivets to see what's involved in replacing the whole plate.

It all came apart relatively easily after I ground the rivet heads down. I've managed to source some 0.3mm Phosphor bronze spring sheet quite cheaply and some M2 Solid Aluminium Rivets. I'll use the broken one as a template and cut and bend the new one from the plate. Sounds and looks simple - what could go wrong!

Thanks to BryanJ I also have a Rotor arriving, so hopefully i'll be good to go.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Got to have some left of the plate after the bend for that to be a solution Johnny I’d imagine. I’m looking at replacing the entire plate.

Inspired by your good self, i decided to remove the two rivets to see what's involved in replacing the whole plate.

It all came apart relatively easily after I ground the rivet heads down. I've managed to source some 0.3mm Phosphor bronze spring sheet quite cheaply and some M2 Solid Aluminium Rivets. I'll use the broken one as a template and cut and bend the new one from the plate. Sounds and looks simple - what could go wrong!

Thanks to BryanJ I also have a Rotor arriving, so hopefully i'll be good to go.

Don't forget you need some sort of contact as well, iirc the original has a hole where it fits on the prong end.

[Oddjob]

Almost my idea exactly Neil. I went for 0.8mm copper sheet though as I wanted some substance in the plate. I’ll drill a small hole where it makes contact with the rotor and fit a small copper rivet there which should help with any wear issues. Just waiting for the copper sheet to arrive, already have the copper rivets for some reason.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

It will be interesting to see the finished repair photos from either of you.👍

[Johnny4428]

Got to have some left of the plate after the bend for that to be a solution Johnny I’d imagine. I’m looking at replacing the entire plate.

Yes Ken, it was just the main contact protrusion gone  leaving a hole in the end of the contact plate.