Author Topic: Cleaning rear hub  (Read 2789 times)

Offline paulbaker1954

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Cleaning rear hub
« on: June 14, 2016, 06:28:30 AM »
Anyone used any magic potions on rear hub. I want to clean mine up better but can't get in there cos of the spokes. I tried alloy wheel cleaner (Autoglym) but just wondered if anything else would do a better job
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Offline gtmdriver

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2016, 08:24:55 AM »
I've always had good results using Wonder Wheels.

Offline florence

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2016, 08:34:23 AM »
an old toothbrush is always good for getting at difficult places and if you're feeling really fancy, an electric one.

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2016, 08:56:49 AM »
Pretty sure that hub will be clear coated if its original. This yellows slightly with age. No point in polishing it before that is removed. It comes off literally in seconds with Methylene chloride based paint stripper. How do I know? I stripped 6 fork legs and 5 Honda hubs yesterday. Very difficult to polish whilst laced. Toothbrush and solvol etc. Mine were all bare hubs. The dry-state  US import ones are amazing once you remove the yellowed clear coat. UK ones are a totally different kettle of fish. I just bead blast UK ones with 0/50 glass beads and then polish the outsides. A guy in Hull says he will vapour blast all of the hub centre portions after I have dry bead blasted  I have ( about 12) for 50 quid, just need to convince myself that the vapour finish is worth the extra expense as the dry glass finish is pretty neat.
« Last Edit: June 14, 2016, 08:59:02 AM by AshimotoK0 »
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Offline GiannisFour

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #4 on: June 14, 2016, 10:33:00 AM »
Pretty sure that hub will be clear coated if its original. This yellows slightly with age. No point in polishing it before that is removed. It comes off literally in seconds with Methylene chloride based paint stripper. How do I know? I stripped 6 fork legs and 5 Honda hubs yesterday. Very difficult to polish whilst laced. Toothbrush and solvol etc. Mine were all bare hubs. The dry-state  US import ones are amazing once you remove the yellowed clear coat. UK ones are a totally different kettle of fish. I just bead blast UK ones with 0/50 glass beads and then polish the outsides. A guy in Hull says he will vapour blast all of the hub centre portions after I have dry bead blasted  I have ( about 12) for 50 quid, just need to convince myself that the vapour finish is worth the extra expense as the dry glass finish is pretty neat.

Good option!!!
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Offline paulbaker1954

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #5 on: June 14, 2016, 12:00:38 PM »
Good advice Ash, as you say mine is pretty yellowed

When you say paint stripper would Nitromos do the job?

Also a bit wary of using such stuff around tyres etc, any advice
« Last Edit: June 14, 2016, 12:56:40 PM by paulbaker1954 »
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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #6 on: June 14, 2016, 03:01:23 PM »
Good advice Ash, as you say mine is pretty yellowed

When you say paint stripper would Nitromos do the job?

Also a bit wary of using such stuff around tyres etc, any advice

Nitromors is rubbish now. I used the stuff in the 5l tin but both will work fine. Just keep away from the tyre. Doesn't seem to attack zinc plating if you are quick.

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“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline Orcade-Ian

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #7 on: June 14, 2016, 03:08:45 PM »
Don't get me on about Nitromors - it used to be fantastic until the Eurocrats insisted the formula was changed.  Now, you might as well pee on it for all the good the over expensive 'new, improved' Nitromors does. As Ash says, you need a stripper with methylene chloride which was the active ingredient.  I've said this before but I'd like to bet that more folk have died with heart failure ranting about 'new improved' formulae than ever died from the so called nasty chemicals. 

I always dismantle wheels to polish hubs, it's just too tedious otherwise.  Measure all offsets and take plenty good pics of spoke pattern and build them back yourself with a simple home made jig.  Just remember there are inside and outside facing spokes.

Ian

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #8 on: June 14, 2016, 03:14:14 PM »
Don't get me on about Nitromors - it used to be fantastic until the Eurocrats insisted the formula was changed.  Now, you might as well pee on it for all the good the over expensive 'new, improved' Nitromors does. As Ash says, you need a stripper with methylene chloride which was the active ingredient.  I've said this before but I'd like to bet that more folk have died with heart failure ranting about 'new improved' formulae than ever died from the so called nasty chemicals. 

I always dismantle wheels to polish hubs, it's just too tedious otherwise.  Measure all offsets and take plenty good pics of spoke pattern and build them back yourself with a simple home made jig.  Just remember there are inside and outside facing spokes.

Ian

Good advice Ian...thought Honda wheels had zero offset .. that's what I was told on HondaTwins.net site
“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline Orcade-Ian

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #9 on: June 14, 2016, 03:54:00 PM »
Hi Ash,
Yes, all the Honda wheels I have done (so far) have no real measurable offset but the spokes have enough thread to allow the rim to be upto 5mm off to one side, so I always lay a straightedge across the hub and record the distance to the rim before dismantling.  That way, no matter what kind of wheel I'm doing, the result is always correct. Another thing I try to do is match up the valve hole with any 'witness marks' on the hub.

Must talk to you about a supplier for the DCM stripper - always awkward in Orkney
Regards,
Ian

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #10 on: June 14, 2016, 04:41:42 PM »
Hi Ash,
Yes, all the Honda wheels I have done (so far) have no real measurable offset but the spokes have enough thread to allow the rim to be upto 5mm off to one side, so I always lay a straightedge across the hub and record the distance to the rim before dismantling.  That way, no matter what kind of wheel I'm doing, the result is always correct. Another thing I try to do is match up the valve hole with any 'witness marks' on the hub.

Must talk to you about a supplier for the DCM stripper - always awkward in Orkney
Regards,
Ian

I managed to knock down the lady selling it to 20 quid for 5l  at autojumble and £7 for the 1 litre stuff..(1 litre stuff is more of a gel and marginally better) If you want me to get you any next time I am there , no problem and I can tie up with you if your'e in Hull anytime or leave it with someone who's coming to visit you.
“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline Orcade-Ian

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #11 on: June 14, 2016, 04:55:07 PM »
Many thanks for that Ash,
Not sure when I'll be down in Englandshire again but will certainly bear it in mind.  Everywhere seems to want some cast iron guarantee that it will only be used in industrial premises, so might have to be economical with the truth - you know, like politicians.

Ian

Offline paulbaker1954

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #12 on: July 12, 2016, 08:22:10 AM »
I got this from ebay and did a really great job - bonus is available in 1L can as well as free P&P

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paint-Stripper-1-litre-Restorations-Car-Bodywork-Metal-Remover-Wood-Furniture-HD-/291808738692?

Actually came from a place called Frost A.R.T and they sell some really useful restoration stuff as well, worth a look !!!

www.frost.co.uk

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #13 on: July 12, 2016, 08:59:30 AM »
I got this from ebay and did a really great job - bonus is available in 1L can as well as free P&P

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paint-Stripper-1-litre-Restorations-Car-Bodywork-Metal-Remover-Wood-Furniture-HD-/291808738692?

Actually came from a place called Frost A.R.T and they sell some really useful restoration stuff as well, worth a look !!!

www.frost.co.uk

That looks like the stuff Paul .. typically £7 / litre & even £20 for 5l at autojumbles though (e.g. Newark) if you haggle. I stripped a 750K0 rear hub carrier this morning, lacquer came off literally in seconds !
“Alright friends, you have seen the heavy groups, now you will see morning maniac music. Believe me, yeah. It’s a new dawn.” Grace Slick, Woodstock '69 .. In the year of the Sandcast.

Offline Chris400F

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Re: Cleaning rear hub
« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2016, 02:08:06 PM »
Good advice Ash, as you say mine is pretty yellowed

When you say paint stripper would Nitromos do the job?

Also a bit wary of using such stuff around tyres etc, any advice

Nitromors is rubbish now. I used the stuff in the 5l tin but both will work fine. Just keep away from the tyre. Doesn't seem to attack zinc plating if you are quick.

(Attachment Link)
I picked up a 1l can of the Final Systems stuff from The Bay for £12.49 delivered which seemed not unreasonable.
Looking at the tin it seems pretty evil stuff, so before using it can anyone offer advice on the best way of applying and removing it, particularly on fiddly stuff like around brackets.
Thanks in advance.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FINAL-SYSTEMS-HEAVY-DUTY-PAINT-VARNISH-STRIPPER-1-LTR-FOR-ALL-PAINT-TYPES-/201628390953?hash=item2ef1fd1629:g:fSAAAOxyeglTaUAw

 

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