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Pretty sure that hub will be clear coated if its original. This yellows slightly with age. No point in polishing it before that is removed. It comes off literally in seconds with Methylene chloride based paint stripper. How do I know? I stripped 6 fork legs and 5 Honda hubs yesterday. Very difficult to polish whilst laced. Toothbrush and solvol etc. Mine were all bare hubs. The dry-state US import ones are amazing once you remove the yellowed clear coat. UK ones are a totally different kettle of fish. I just bead blast UK ones with 0/50 glass beads and then polish the outsides. A guy in Hull says he will vapour blast all of the hub centre portions after I have dry bead blasted I have ( about 12) for 50 quid, just need to convince myself that the vapour finish is worth the extra expense as the dry glass finish is pretty neat.
Good advice Ash, as you say mine is pretty yellowedWhen you say paint stripper would Nitromos do the job? Also a bit wary of using such stuff around tyres etc, any advice
Don't get me on about Nitromors - it used to be fantastic until the Eurocrats insisted the formula was changed. Now, you might as well pee on it for all the good the over expensive 'new, improved' Nitromors does. As Ash says, you need a stripper with methylene chloride which was the active ingredient. I've said this before but I'd like to bet that more folk have died with heart failure ranting about 'new improved' formulae than ever died from the so called nasty chemicals. I always dismantle wheels to polish hubs, it's just too tedious otherwise. Measure all offsets and take plenty good pics of spoke pattern and build them back yourself with a simple home made jig. Just remember there are inside and outside facing spokes.Ian
Hi Ash,Yes, all the Honda wheels I have done (so far) have no real measurable offset but the spokes have enough thread to allow the rim to be upto 5mm off to one side, so I always lay a straightedge across the hub and record the distance to the rim before dismantling. That way, no matter what kind of wheel I'm doing, the result is always correct. Another thing I try to do is match up the valve hole with any 'witness marks' on the hub.Must talk to you about a supplier for the DCM stripper - always awkward in OrkneyRegards,Ian
I got this from ebay and did a really great job - bonus is available in 1L can as well as free P&Phttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paint-Stripper-1-litre-Restorations-Car-Bodywork-Metal-Remover-Wood-Furniture-HD-/291808738692?Actually came from a place called Frost A.R.T and they sell some really useful restoration stuff as well, worth a look !!!www.frost.co.uk
Quote from: paulbaker1954 on June 14, 2016, 12:00:38 PMGood advice Ash, as you say mine is pretty yellowedWhen you say paint stripper would Nitromos do the job? Also a bit wary of using such stuff around tyres etc, any adviceNitromors is rubbish now. I used the stuff in the 5l tin but both will work fine. Just keep away from the tyre. Doesn't seem to attack zinc plating if you are quick. (Attachment Link)