Charging test

[El__burro]

Hi, any quick link to how to test if the system is recharging the battery on K2.

I don't have an ammeter just a regular tester.

Thanks
el__burro

[Johnwebley]

a useful guide is start the bike,

  turn the head light on,and press brake so that come on as well,

 slowly rev the motor towards 2,000rpm,if it is charging,the lights should brighten,after 2.000rpm they may dim slightly as
the charge rate is checked by the regulator,


  do it at dusk,it helps you see the difference,

[El__burro]

is it that simple?
Tried and it does.
Thanks

[K2-K6]

As John has pointed out, the headlight going brighter as you increase revs from tickover shows the charging output in increasing as it should do. A very valid quick and dirty firstline check.

If you have a voltmeter,  then connect to battery, should show about 12.5 to 12.9 volts with bike turned off. Turn on and start, volts should now show about 13.5 to 13.95 volts as this is a normal charge rate for most systems. You may have to rev it to about 2000 rpm to see the max figure.

Most systems (apart from some of the newer stuff)  will cut off at 14 volts max to avoid boiling the battery dry. If they can sustain anything above 13.5 then they should have the ability to keep the battery charged and at a healthy level.

Finally with it running, start turning any lights you have on to increase the demand and the alternator should if healthy be able to maintain the charge rate that you saw without the lights on.

[El__burro]

If you have a voltmeter,  then connect to battery, should show about 12.5 to 12.9 volts with bike turned off. Turn on and start, volts should now show about 13.5 to 13.95 volts as this is a normal charge rate for most systems. You may have to rev it to about 2000 rpm to see the max figure.

Most systems (apart from some of the newer stuff)  will cut off at 14 volts max to avoid boiling the battery dry. If they can sustain anything above 13.5 then they should have the ability to keep the battery charged and at a healthy level

Not sure if I have got it right but I did exactly that yesterday, I attached the voltmeter to the battery and revved a bit, it went to about 15v, (I am surprised it didnt blow any lights off).

I will retry the test again tomorrow but.. can it be, also could this be the reason for a roasted battery?

Thanks
el__burro

[Johnwebley]

If you have a voltmeter,  then connect to battery, should show about 12.5 to 12.9 volts with bike turned off. Turn on and start, volts should now show about 13.5 to 13.95 volts as this is a normal charge rate for most systems. You may have to rev it to about 2000 rpm to see the max figure.

Most systems (apart from some of the newer stuff)  will cut off at 14 volts max to avoid boiling the battery dry. If they can sustain anything above 13.5 then they should have the ability to keep the battery charged and at a healthy level

Not sure if I have got it right but I did exactly that yesterday, I attached the voltmeter to the battery and revved a bit, it went to about 15v, (I am surprised it didnt blow any lights off).

I will retry the test again tomorrow but.. can it be, also could this be the reason for a roasted battery?

Thanks
el__burro

  could well be,what charging system,regulator/recifier are you using?

[El__burro]

If you have a voltmeter,  then connect to battery, should show about 12.5 to 12.9 volts with bike turned off. Turn on and start, volts should now show about 13.5 to 13.95 volts as this is a normal charge rate for most systems. You may have to rev it to about 2000 rpm to see the max figure.

Most systems (apart from some of the newer stuff)  will cut off at 14 volts max to avoid boiling the battery dry. If they can sustain anything above 13.5 then they should have the ability to keep the battery charged and at a healthy level

Not sure if I have got it right but I did exactly that yesterday, I attached the voltmeter to the battery and revved a bit, it went to about 15v, (I am surprised it didnt blow any lights off).

I will retry the test again tomorrow but.. can it be, also could this be the reason for a roasted battery?

Thanks
el__burro

  could well be,what charging system,regulator/recifier are you using?

All stock, original K2
el__burro

[K2-K6]

That would definitely compromise the battery If it's always charging at that rate.

Get a cross check of your meter by just measuring another car or bike which should give you a reasonable check to make sure your meter is not wrong.

Some of the newer cars and intelligent battery chargers run up to something around 16 volts but they have a strategy and measurement to ensure that a once fairly low battery gets quite a kick to bring it back toward normal range, then they back down the volts to avoid over heating the battery.

I'd say with reasonable confidence that continously charging at the rate you are seeing will screw the battery. Almost without exception you'd look to 14 volts as a general working maximum is what you should have in a normal system.

The lights would take probably more than 18 volts before they'd blow, so you won't necessarily see problems. Bright headlight though ;0

[El__burro]

Did a car battery check with the multimeter,  it reads 12,5v (engine off)
Then I did a check on the bike.
Battery level is 13v
turn the key, it drops to below 11v
kickstart and goes to 13.5v at low revvs
It reaches 15,5v at higher revvs.

I guess something is wrong but what?
el__burro

[K2-K6]

The rectifier and regulator work on the output from the alternator.

AC current comes from the alternator and is converted by the rectifier to dc current suitable for the battery and bike electrics, but doesn't have any control as to the total output. The fact you can get too high a voltage confirms this area is ok.

Then the regulator has the function of controlling/limiting the DC voltage to the required maximum to run system within design limits,  so it's this component that needs to be looked at.

[paulbaker1954]

The Regulator on the 500 four has an adjusting screw to alter the voltage at which point the armature pulls in. May not be the same on the 750 but just thought it worth a mention

[K2-K6]

Yes Paul the 750 has the same, maybe even the same unit I'm not sure. I went off to read the 750 manual to see how to do it.

If you remove the regulator casing then inside are various adjustment screws, the two screws near each other at the points end of the assembly are for adjusting respectively the points gap and the core gap,  leave these both alone without definite knowledge of the setup.

At the opposite end of the assembly from the points is another single screw with a locknut,  if this is turned clockwise then the manual says it will decrease the voltage output.

Here's where you have to make a judgment on the stated settings as these bikes originally came with a straight wet lead acid battery and the manual includes 3 whole pages about looking after the liquid level add condition/dilution of the acid in it. Manual states a setting of 14 to 15 volts at 5000rpm with no load being drawn.
I'd set that to as close to 14 as possible for an AGM battery to take account of the change in type,  I may be wrongs but I've not seen anything that comes fitted with an AGM type that regularly charges over 14volts, most I've measured are cutting off at about 13.95 volts.

[Bryanj]

Adjusting the reg should only be done with a guaranteed good fully charged battery and within certin ambient temperatures that I can't remember

[El__burro]

too late, i've adjusted that at 5000rpm will not go over 14.5V
(I dont have a rev counter so I guessed)

I have also checked the gaps and it seemed ok.
el__burro

[Johnwebley]

good for you,

 just keep an eye on it,

  hope its sorted for you,

 soon all the issues will be sorted,and you can enjoy  the bike and rides