Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
I did re-stake mine Just gave it a sharp belt with a punch.The spokes soon go black if you don't clean them.
Think the 160mm air gap would be more accurate a measure if you were to drain and then refill the forks as it would accommodate any residual oil left inside the assembly and not cause you to increase the volume. It's not too critical as 145ml should be fine to make sure all the damper functions are covered and operated as expected. You'd trim the 160mm measurement if you wanted to get the air gap adding to the spring rate (it effectively makes an air spring if the fork seals hold the pressure) as the fork reached full compression. To be honest, it's not something most people would notice in general use. If the fork stoke is 102mm, you've got to allow at least that before the oil hits the top of the fork cap and stops it compressing hydraulically. So in reality, allowing for some space above the oil, you've only probably between 130 to 160 to play with total. If they are totally dry then 145ml is accurate enough. If not certain, then with springs installed the 160mm is probably most concise.
The rear brake mechanism goes to the front of the swinging arm (between the arm and engine). It needs to be put on (through the frame mount) before you put the swinging arm on This goes on before the arm (Attachment Link)
Also attach the brake rod to it, not easy to get the pin in and the split pin afterwards
The horn needs to go to ground , the earth lead and the coils If you have drilled the bars, be careful that they don't snap
Nope, the ground to the horn is PN 38105 323 000 Or 38120 392 620