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The collar is the steel bit that the bushes pivot on mate NOTE:- NOT the bolt that goes through the inside of the collar ( I call it a pivot but Honda call it a collar)
Yup, but I think you have to use the earlier (K1,2,3) one as the later one is NLA
500 fours and 250/350 use smaller versions.
Quote from: mickwinf on July 30, 2016, 01:42:38 PM500 fours and 250/350 use smaller versions.Do they all have the same 'ratio'? I believe some tachos differ between models; I had a couple with different ratios printed on the back of the casings.Note also that 250/350/360 twins and 350/400 fours have 18" front wheels while 500 and above have 19", may also affect your choice.
Oooookay,So a few bits arrived in the post today, my replacement ignition and remote tank which got me a little excited as finally i can see if this thing starts right?So first thing i notice is in key position 1 i seem to have power, the neutral light comes on, if i press the horn i get a very weak sounding fart noise,no headlight and unfortunately I've already stripped off the brakes and rear light so can't check those right now. Key position 2 the neutral light goes out and the horn ceases to work so somethings going on there. The connectors that go into the ignition connector block short with each other mega easily but i made sure they weren't touching each other and still no luck. Electric start also didn't do anything.Anyway i thought its worth trying to kick it anyway to see what happens, plumbed in my remote tank (credit to Jamesh_sussex for the link) and fuel just immediately pissed out of carb 1&2 from the areas circled. Haven't got my haynes manual to hand so apologies for the lack of technical terms (and knowledge hah).is this likely to be stuck floats? Was hoping i could see if it would run first before rebuilding the carbs but looks like this is going to be my next job. Just want to hear the old gal growl
Quote from: Underdog1 on August 01, 2016, 02:34:07 PMOooookay,So a few bits arrived in the post today, my replacement ignition and remote tank which got me a little excited as finally i can see if this thing starts right?So first thing i notice is in key position 1 i seem to have power, the neutral light comes on, if i press the horn i get a very weak sounding fart noise,no headlight and unfortunately I've already stripped off the brakes and rear light so can't check those right now. Key position 2 the neutral light goes out and the horn ceases to work so somethings going on there. The connectors that go into the ignition connector block short with each other mega easily but i made sure they weren't touching each other and still no luck. Electric start also didn't do anything.Anyway i thought its worth trying to kick it anyway to see what happens, plumbed in my remote tank (credit to Jamesh_sussex for the link) and fuel just immediately pissed out of carb 1&2 from the areas circled. Haven't got my haynes manual to hand so apologies for the lack of technical terms (and knowledge hah).is this likely to be stuck floats? Was hoping i could see if it would run first before rebuilding the carbs but looks like this is going to be my next job. Just want to hear the old gal growl Hi,I'm pretty sure position 2 on the ignition switch is the parking lights ie. the front pilot light and rear tail light only, and nothing else..if so you should be able to take the key out when its in position 2.keep at it.
There isn't one on the wheel that side, just a thick oil/grease seal. Try levering it out with a tyre lever or large screwdriver, a little at a time on opposite edges at a time. Try not to gouge the alloy of the hub as you do it. Or you can use the bearing to remove it by knocking it through from the other side.