CB750 Barn find project - First Timer

[totty]

Should be fine, I had a mate that did it all the time, he did a cylinder head for me once.

[Nurse Julie]

Don't put a dishwasher tablet in unless it's a non corrosive type, otherwise it may send all the alloy black. It will also make any steel parts, like the liners go rusty immediately. Maybe consider an acid dip clean (needs to be done professionally) to get all old paint/oil/sh*t off, achieves a far better result.

[Underdog1]

Don't put a dishwasher tablet in unless it's a non corrosive type, otherwise it may send all the alloy black. It will also make any steel parts, like the liners go rusty immediately. Maybe consider an acid dip clean (needs to be done professionally) to get all old paint/oil/sh*t off, achieves a far better result.

Surely the parts washers at machine shops are pretty much an industrial dish washer? Guess I'll try with just hot water after scrubbing the worst of the grime off.

I'll dry them off with an air compressor and any steel bits can get a wipe of WD40 when will report back tomorrow!

[Nurse Julie]

Industrial parts washers use chemicals but, non corrosive and also an inhibitor to stop them rusting.

[Green1]

I have put a complete cg engine in the dishwasher that came out spotless.A few rocker covers,Cylinder head,carbs and now a wiring loom all with a dishwasher tab and all were fine. 
WD40 on the liners is a good idea I did the same to prevent rust

[Underdog1]

Industrial parts washers use chemicals but, non corrosive and also an inhibitor to stop them rusting.

That's a fair one, will look up what's actually in the dishwasher tabs and how alkaline it is.

I have put a complete cg engine in the dishwasher that came out spotless.A few rocker covers,Cylinder head,carbs and now a wiring loom all with a dishwasher tab and all were fine. 
WD40 on the liners is a good idea I did the same to prevent rust

Was that with just regular dishwasher tabs?

[Green1]

I used Finish dishwasher tabs

[Underdog1]

So i put a few bits through the dishwasher on the hottest wash without any dish wash tablets.



Prize to anyone who said steel parts will rust immediately!



Wasn't so bad though as a bit of oil on a cloth cleaned it right off..



Apart from the didn't get much else done today to be honest, Im trying to get the kick starter shaft out of the lower case but i can't get the little stopper pin out. As per the picture in the workshop manual I've tried a pair of side cut pliars but it wont budge at all, any suggestions?

[Underdog1]

Even though the crankshaft and final drive sprocket  were seemingly loose I was unable to actually remove them from the upper case. Just nipped back out to the garage and prised the thick rubber seal off on the end of both and they lifted right out so the upper case is now empty 

[Underdog1]

Had a netflix and chill day today so didn't spend much time in the garage. I managed to get that pesky kick starter stopper pin thing out with the help of a blowtorch and mole grips, took one hell of an effort though!

All thats left in the cases now is the transmission countershaft. Ive got shift fork ears and shaft off, top gear, bottom gear and primary drive gear out but the rest of the countershaft (with remaining 3 gears) wont lift out as pictures in my haynes manual as the gearshift drum is in the way by like 1mm. Is it possible to get them out without removing the gear shift drum (i wanted to avoid having to remove that staked screw on the gear shift side plate...



Also if I'm going to paint the whole engine is it better to do it fully stripped down or when its fully assembled (the later seems a lot less admin taping things off!)?

[Trigger]

Hope you numbered the crank case shells and they have to go back in the same place.

[Trigger]

Take the gear selector drum out and you will have room to remove the cogs
You don't have to take the drum apart. If you remove the natural switch (that is under the engine) the whole drum will pull out.

[Underdog1]

Take the gear selector drum out and you will have room to remove the cogs
You don't have to take the drum apart. If you remove the natural switch (that is under the engine) the whole drum will pull out.

Yep that was the badger! Started the cleaning process today.. well tried too. Went out looking for degreaser and ended up buying 5L of holts brake cleaner for £11 thinking it would do the trick.

Sprayed the crank cases liberally, left a few minutes and then blasted with a pressure washer annnnnd nothing happened. Despite the stuff cutting through the crap like theres no tomorrow its so volatile it just evaporates which solidifies all the grease again before you can even wash it off. Tried in the sink with some hot soapy water which again didn't really do the job, the only thing which did work was spraying small areas at a time with the brake cleaner and wiping it down with a paper towel. Took ages to do the bottom case but eventually i got to this:




Still needs a bit more work but got the worst of the grime off. My local motor factors also stocks Gunk and Jizer, would either of these fit the bill better (i.e. apply, agitate with brush, leave, power wash off)?

[Nurse Julie]

Follow this link Phil, it may be of use to you.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,10783.msg78781.html#msg78781

[Underdog1]

Follow this link Phil, it may be of use to you.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,10783.msg78781.html#msg78781

I've read through this previously and I don't think I can afford £2k of acid right now. Good to see how it's done on a commercial level though. Been thinking I may even not paint the engine at all depending how well it cleans up, I quite like the patina in the aluminium parts..

I've bought an m20x80 bolt which I'm going to grind the end down slightly and use as a rotor tool, are there any decent life hacks out there for the clutch tool? Pretty expensive to buy!