CB750 Barn find project - First Timer

[Darkness]

You can buy second hand dishwashers on Gumtree or eBay for £10, so why take a chance on the one in the house?  At that price, use it on a few small items first, then give everything a wash once you know what effect it has on parts.
We expect feedback though, with recommendations on which tablets give best results. 

[Underdog1]

I definitely want to internally wire my bars so been looking at steel bars today, probably going to get some EMGO super bike bars although I'll have to get the from US eBay, its crazy how hard it is to get a decent set of steel low rise bars in the UK. Should be no problem drilling them though. Yes I'm getting ahead of myself as my bike is still in 8 gazillion pieces 

Continued cleaning up a load of parts last night (wild), still have a small amount of sealant left on the cases (well it's more like residue now) I started using a razor blade to scrape it off but this marks the aluminium.. would a fine sand paper be ok to get this off? I don't really fancy paying £10 for a can of gasket remover I'm barely going to use. If not is there anything else that can be used?

Merry Christmas Eve everyone!

[mike the bike]

Use a blunt scraper or Stanley blade, one that doesn't dig into the aluminium

[Underdog1]

Use a blunt scraper or Stanley blade, one that doesn't dig into the aluminium

Stanley blade sounds a good shout

[hairygit]

I definitely want to internally wire my bars so been looking at steel bars today, probably going to get some EMGO super bike bars although I'll have to get the from US eBay, its crazy how hard it is to get a decent set of steel low rise bars in the UK. Should be no problem drilling them though. Yes I'm getting ahead of myself as my bike is still in 8 gazillion pieces 

Continued cleaning up a load of parts last night (wild), still have a small amount of sealant left on the cases (well it's more like residue now) I started using a razor blade to scrape it off but this marks the aluminium.. would a fine sand paper be ok to get this off? I don't really fancy paying £10 for a can of gasket remover I'm barely going to use. If not is there anything else that can be used?

Merry Christmas Eve everyone!   You will still need bars that are strengthened where the cables exit the bars between the yoke clamps, as the slot needed to exit the cables is quite large, and Honda strengthened them for a good reason!

[Chris400F]

What about bars off a different model, say a 400? These are pretty low rise and the standard wiring is internal so the holes are already in place.

[Seabeowner]

If I use a Stanley blade I use it mounted in one of those handles they make for removing paint from window panes. But go gently.

[Underdog1]

What about bars off a different model, say a 400? These are pretty low rise and the standard wiring is internal so the holes are already in place.

I thought about that to be fair but after a little research some people say they find them too narrow for the bigger bike. Would be ideal though do get some ready drilled for the wiring!

[Chris400F]

What about bars off a different model, say a 400? These are pretty low rise and the standard wiring is internal so the holes are already in place.

I thought about that to be fair but after a little research some people say they find them too narrow for the bigger bike. Would be ideal though do get some ready drilled for the wiring!

They are quite narrow, not sure of the exact width without measuring.
Maybe the bars from a larger UK spec bike, say a 750 F1, would do. Pretty sure they would be flatter than the ones shown in the photo of your bike at the start of this thread.
DS sell replica ones, you could have a look there.

[Underdog1]

Yeah the euro spec 750k bars are much lower than the US mini ape hangers! Still a little higher than I'd like though.

I'd like to end up with a front end that looks similar to this:

[Underdog1]

Just chilled out the last 2 days and been too full of booze and cheese to even think about going in the garage.

I have however purchased a transistor ignition from Hondaman and sort of solved the handlebar problem.. my mrs is travelling to the states in Jan and I've found a local bikeshop that sells cool bars and also Mac 4 into 1 exhausts. Probably going to get a few more bits too as it'll save me a load on shipping and VAT.

Been thinking about my wiring loom today. I've got the crusty old original one which I want to replace, and I'm doing away with indicators, got a solid state reg rec and will have an electronic ignition.. am I better to buy a new loom from somewhere like DSS or put my own together? Basicwlly I know how to solder but have never tried something this big so skills may be a little lacking

[Trigger]

Just chilled out the last 2 days and been too full of booze and cheese to even think about going in the garage.

I have however purchased a transistor ignition from Hondaman and sort of solved the handlebar problem.. my mrs is travelling to the states in Jan and I've found a local bikeshop that sells cool bars and also Mac 4 into 1 exhausts. Probably going to get a few more bits too as it'll save me a load on shipping and VAT.

Been thinking about my wiring loom today. I've got the crusty old original one which I want to replace, and I'm doing away with indicators, got a solid state reg rec and will have an electronic ignition.. am I better to buy a new loom from somewhere like DSS or put my own together? Basicwlly I know how to solder but have never tried something this big so skills may be a little lacking

If you contact a member RGP750, I think he still has a new 750 loom that he bought by mistake 
Those bars look like UK 750 STD, which have been powder coated.

[Bryanj]

Hondamans system still uses the original points and coils and for what you want the easiest solution is a standard loom and switchgear just not connecting the bits you don't use

[Underdog1]

Few things happened today as the Mrs is back at work 

Firstly the welder rocked up with my frame in the back of his van, its only taken him since august to weld the rear hoop on!  Looks like he's done a good job though just don't think ill be using him ever again.



Now all my engine internals are nice and clean I can check things for wear properly, the bikes only got 18.5k on the clock and everything so far has been good. I haven't taken the con rods off the crank shaft as I've heard told the con rod bolts can't be reused so was only going to look at the rod bearings if i had reason to look deeper (i.e. if i found significant wear elsewhere).

I got some plastiguage from eBay which I'm a bit dubious about, it came in a pack like this:



And even though its the right size for doing the crankshaft bearings (according to the pack) whenever I've seen pics/vids of people plastiguaging their crank bearings they seem to be using the green one.

Anyway i applied the stuff like so:



And torqued down the 10x 8mm lower crank case bolts to 17.5 lbs.ft in the correct pattern being careful not to turn the crankshaft then took the lower crank case back off giving me this:






Now i thought the plastiguage was supposed to stay in one piece and not stick so much to both surfaces? According to the measurements I've got from it they are all ok (max 0.08mm) but it just doesn't seem to have worked right. Maybe i bought some fake stuff I'm not sure but it was definitely a pain to clean off afterwards!

Apart from this i cleaned up some AC generator parts and seem to have lost one of the washers for one of the 3 bolts that hold the field coil to the cover. I didn't realise there even was washers here until they started flying off when i used the pressure washer on the cover  Hopefully ill find something the right size knocking about so i don't have to part with six billion pound for one with Mr Silvers.

I also found this thin metal tab although I'm not sure its part of anything could just be something that was already sitting on my workbench. Anyone recognise this?



So just waiting on a few bottom end seals to come and then i can start putting the old girl together again. For assembly of the engine I understand that a lot of the internals require submerging in oil as it can take a full minute of run time for oil to reach things like the main shaft.. is there a specific oil recommended for this? Ive got GTX Semi synthetic 10w40 and Triple QX semi synthetic 10w40 for diesel engines to hand, was thinking about using the GTX for assembly and first couple of hundred miles before switching the the Triple QX which has the turbo additive which I've seen recommended for these old bikes.

Finally when using the haynes manual and workshop manual for disassembly at no point was it mentioned to keep track of which primary chain went where and which direction it went in so i didn't. Hondamans book emphasises how important it is to do this as the chains wear unevenly. With 18.5k on my bike what sort of issues could arise from putting the primary chains back differently?

So in summary, todays questions are:

1. Do you think i have dodgy plastiguage 
2. Does anyone recognise that little metal tab as part of the AC generator?
3. What oil should i use to soak my internals in before assembly?
4. Will the universe explode if i put my primary chains on backwards?
5. Is father christmas real?

[Trigger]

1) Nothing wrong with that plasigauge. That is down to the operator 
2) Never seen that tab before.
3) No need to soak parts in oil. Use a assembly compound on the shells and cam. A little oil on the bores.
4) No direction for chains, just staggered.
5) I will send you some more sealing washers for the alternator with the other parts.