Bike rebuild

[Teddy45]

Hi, I'm a newbie on this site and to bikes too (sorry I've been a car type petrol head  ) but I would like to share my bike rebuild process - not too many problems so far.
I bought the bike as a box of bits on ebay last year, since then I have built a shed for it,  had the frame and other bits shot blasted, bought and replaced the most obvious  parts - not many missing, but many to replace;- exhaust and seat were missing, but front forks, rear dampers, wheels and a tank needed replacing as well as the run of the mill stuff such as bearings, gaskets, 'O' seals piston rings replaced so far.
The engine rebuild did not reveal any wear, but the engine is a replacement anyway, the log book says its a 500/4 but the block is clearly stamped as a 550/4.
So now the frame is 'mounted' on the bench with the engine installed where I can tackle most of the engine reassembly and a few ancillaries too.
I will update the site on further progress.
Just one major problem; I have had great difficulty removing a head stud from a scrap engine I bought, my engine came minus one stud. I have applied a 18" long torque wrench to the studs (nuts back to back), only to find that because the turning moment is 6" above the lower part of the stud where it's stuck, I'm bending the studs - 2 out of the available 6 so far! And the jaws of the special tool I've bought (see pic)will not bite into the stud in order to grip it.
I have not tried too much heat, my blow lamp is more of a pencil flame anyway, but would anyone suggest that heat will work?

[Trigger]

You need a lot of heat, try putting it in the oven at 220c for a hour. Use two nuts to lock against each over.

[Teddy45]

Thanks for that, I will have to split the case to get it anywhere near the oven and make sure the wife is out, lol, here's the frame photo I should have posted.

[mike the bike]

This type looks more useful than the chuck types.  I would use heat as well just to get the stud in the right frame of mind, and WD40 as an added incentive.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-VS7232-STUD-REMOVER-EXTRACTOR-INSTALLER-8-19MM-FOR-1-2-DRIVE-/310500479481?hash=item484b4551f9:g:rDUAAOSwEgVWRcO7

PS welcome to the forum,  you've come to the right place for advice...most of which is useful.

PPS.  There's a cheaper one again at £7.95

[philward]

Welcome and good luck with the  rebuild

[Trigger]

This type looks more useful than the chuck types.  I would use heat as well just to get the stud in the right frame of mind, and WD40 as an added incentive.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-VS7232-STUD-REMOVER-EXTRACTOR-INSTALLER-8-19MM-FOR-1-2-DRIVE-/310500479481?hash=item484b4551f9:g:rDUAAOSwEgVWRcO7

PS welcome to the forum,  you've come to the right place for advice...most of which is useful.

PPS.  There's a cheaper one again at £7.95

That is a nasty tool mike.

[mike the bike]

Nasty?  Or do you mean tasty?

[Trigger]

NASTY, had one given to me years ago, it chewed the thread and it is now in the wild blue yonda

[mike the bike]

You're not supposed to chew up the threads,  it's for gripping on to the smooth part of the stud as low as it will go.  Honestly 

[Trigger]

You're not supposed to chew up the threads,  it's for gripping on to the smooth part of the stud as low as it will go.  Honestly 

You are so easy to wind up Mike

[mike the bike]

Gertcha

[Teddy45]

Hi, Thanks for the welcoming posts and the banter!
I'll expand on my rebuild to date; I've covered the engine and after this head stud issue, I'll be fitting new clutch plates and trying to revive the gear selector/indicator switch, mine is shot but I'm hopeful for the one on the donor engine. Ignition/charging, I'm not sure about the coil/rectifier I've got so may go the electronic route.
I replaced the bearings etc on the swing arm, which i needed to spring the frame apart to fit. The front forks and yokes went back together very easily using all new bearings/caps and oil seals.
As you may imagine, I have spent quite a lot at D Silvers but mainly for 'consumable' parts, and have been successful in finding other parts on ebay.

Master plan: I'm not aiming for a concours bike, not by a long way, but would like it to be tidy and thoroughly sorted.
I intend getting some parts re chromed and I have been told there is someone fairly local in Wokingham who does this.
It seems that the 'Honda' and '500/4' emblems are expensive and I don't really have painting skills can anyone recommend a source for these?

I am sure there will be many hurdles ahead, and I've not even stripped the head  or carbs down yet, but I'm enjoying the rebuild and depending how it goes I may even look at getting a licence to drive it, yes - I'm not a motorbike rider, although had plenty of experience in my earlier years

[Laverda Dave]

Welcome to the forum, shame its not a 400/4 
Re: the badges, you'll be surprised at your painting skills with the badges if you give it a go.  I had to repaint the badges on my Morini (oh dear, its Italian ad not even a SOHC but a pushrod V-twin  ). I couldn't find any new spares or decent pattern parts.  These had three colours, black edges, white infill with a red highlight.  I thought it would be an absolute bodge painting them by hand but they came out as though they were factory fresh.  As long as the badge has a 'lip' around the lettering you can paint away and any overpaint can be easily wiped off using a rag soaked in white spirit whilst its still wet. Give it a go and get a new skill, the worst thing to happen is you'll have to get another set and you were going to do that anyway. 
Good luck.

[Trigger]

Most of the members use these >>>http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131207862914?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

There are many posts on how to remove the old ones and fit these.