Charging issue! Help please

[hairygit]

Just so you are aware, the rotor is made of plain iron, not magnetised in itself. The current from the ignition passes through the windings, causing an electro magnet effect, which then acts upon the rotor and magnetising it, and the action of the rotor spinning within the magnetic field of the coils generates the current. It is near impossible to damage the rotor short of physically destroying it, picture bike sliding down the road on it's left side at high speed being scraped away by the road, which would knacker the crank anyway! So discount the rotor from the source of problem, it will be one of the sets of coils, or the wiring from them. Have you tested the yellow wires for continuity at the top end of the loom where they connect to the reg/rectifier, same test you did at the alternator itself? The wires in the loom can break without you seeing them, so if the test at the top doesn't check out, it may well be the issue.

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[Wenman]

Thanks hairygit!

I have tested yellow wires top and bottom and also checked continuity so the wires are good!

Alan

[mike the bike]

Coils don't become demagnetised.  They aren't magnetised in the first place.  The get magnetised when a current passes through the coil.  Think of it like a scrapyard electro magnet type crane.  It's possible that the scraping has caused the field coil to go open circuit.

Checking there's 12V on the black is good but only half the story.   There's got to be 12V across the coil, ie. Red meter lead on the black, black meter lead on the white, meter showing 12V (ish).

[Wenman]

Sorry I understand the magnetic side of things now!

Just to confirm the inner coil has 12v going in and 12v going out!!

I'm clutching at straws now as I cannot find anything else which could be causing the issue!

[mike the bike]

Voltage doesn't go in one end and out the other, its current that flows, not voltage.
If there's 12V on both sides of the coil that means there's not 12V across it but 0V across it.  You should measure 12V one end and 0V the other end.

For example. 
If there's 200V one side of a heating element and 180V the other side, that means there's 20V across the element.

[Niko]

I'm on call next weekend,  if I'm in Torquay I'll call in and get paid double time for sorting your bike out.

To get mine to charge I had to add a second earth from my frame to the green wires....
I.e...frame to green on rec reg...to green from stator


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[Wenman]

Niko

I'll try anything.. can u explain in a little more detail. I see the green wire coming from the frame, that then goes where???

Thanks

Alan

[mike the bike]

Check the regulator is connected to OV. 
Best way is to put red meter lead on battery + and check with black lead on regulator negative (green wire).  If meter shows 12V(ish) then you reg. is connected to negative.   If it don't show 12V on the meter then that's your problem ; reg not earthed. 

[Wenman]

Check the regulator is connected to OV. 
Best way is to put red meter lead on battery + and check with black lead on regulator negative (green wire).  If meter shows 12V(ish) then you reg. is connected to negative.   If it don't show 12V on the meter then that's your problem ; reg not earthed.

Is the the same with combined rec/rec Mike??

[mike the bike]

Yes you've got to have an earth on it otherwise it can't measure the battery voltage.

Imagine birds sitting on a high voltage wire.  It's only high voltage compared with earth.  High voltage on it's own isn't any voltage otherwise the birds would get fried.

Same with a voltage regulator.  It can only measure the voltage if there's a something to measure against.

[Wenman]

Yes you've got to have an earth on it otherwise it can't measure the battery voltage.

Imagine birds sitting on a high voltage wire.  It's only high voltage compared with earth.  High voltage on it's own isn't any voltage otherwise the birds would get fried.

Same with a voltage regulator.  It can only measure the voltage if there's a something to measure against.

The main connector block has a green wire in so I assume that earths the rec/reg would it not?

[hairygit]

You could always run a cable from negative terminal of battery to the earth terminal of the reg/rectifier to discount the possibility of a dodgy earth within the loom.

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[Niko]

You could always run a cable from negative terminal of battery to the earth terminal of the reg/rectifier to discount the possibility of a dodgy earth within the loom.

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That's what I did.....


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[Niko]

Niko

I'll try anything.. can u explain in a little more detail. I see the green wire coming from the frame, that then goes where???

Thanks

Alan

Hi....just added an extra earth. Because I had ripped out the loom...the original earth coming from my stator....green....which would go to green on my reg rec.....didn't seem to allow a charge to flow, I rigged up a temporary earth....and it all came good


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[Wenman]

I will try this soon as I can!

The green earth going to the deleted regulator I cut and heat shrinked thinking the new combined unit would earth through the connector block. However looking at my wiring diagram the earth for the new unit runs through the indicator relay as it has a green, black and white wire going to the relay. My relay only has a black and white wire to it! So maybe just maybe it's not earthing correctly?

I could have completed a masters degree in the time it would have taken me to resolve this issue lol!

Thanks for all ur support guys, lots to do on the bike this weekend and I'll be sure to update u with my findings! If you see my project on eBay it didn't go well! Lol

Al