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New (to me!) '77 CB400F - US model
Nurse Julie:
--- Quote from: hairygit on October 25, 2018, 09:16:44 AM ---
--- Quote from: Nurse Julie on October 25, 2018, 08:44:33 AM ---Strange spec bike as for a 1977 it is the correct colour, Candy Antares Red but the rear foot pegs position being on the swing arm makes it the earlier model. Great collection of photos.
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We had this discussion a while ago nursey, for some reason many of the U.S. F2's still had footrests on the swingarm.
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
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I missed that discussion Mr Hairy 😀😀😀 Good to know though.
Sprocket:
IMHO take the carbs off before running it, and clean them out individually. Rusty gunge will form inside and even if you can get the bike running you risk sucking the gunge into the engine and potentially damaging it or at least making it wear more. If the carb rubbers are hard, warm them up with a hairdrier for a few minutes before taking them off.
Interesting about the Antares red / early swingarm. Not seen that configuration before. Would be good to get some shots of the whole bike too, I can only see closeup shots.
Looks in very good condition though, lovely job :)
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Nurse Julie on October 25, 2018, 09:35:59 AM ---
--- Quote from: hairygit on October 25, 2018, 09:16:44 AM ---We had this discussion a while ago nursey, for some reason many of the U.S. F2's still had footrests on the swingarm.
--- End quote ---
I missed that discussion Mr Hairy 😀😀😀 Good to know though.
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Actually, Nurse Julie, you did put in a brief appearance during one of the footrest discussions - but it was almost four years ago, and since I myself have trouble remembering if I put on my underwear this morning, I won't hold it against you if you don't recall the discussion.
I am curious to know, however, why the swingarm footrest setup was "fixed" in your market, but continued in ours...
mattsz:
Thanks for the battery and carb suggestions, guys!
I have a regular "automobile" charger/starter booster, and a low power (0.75A) battery "maintainer" - I'm told that the little one won't charge a dead battery, but as long as nothing will get damaged (charger or battery), I guess it can't hurt to plug it in after topping up the cells.
I can't think why I didn't take any "whole bike" photos back then, I guess I was only interested in detail shots showing condition. I'll try to take a few today, but it's kind of stuffed into the corner at the moment. Anyway, it looks a lot like all the other ones... ;)
Is it difficult to remove the carb bowls in situ for a cursory investigation? If I do remove and examine/clean the carbs, it definitely won't run until next spring. I'd like to change the oil either way, I suppose I can try to warm up the sump before I drain it? Any harm in connecting the big battery charger/starter booster instead of a battery to crank it over in an attempt to circulate some new oil?
TrickyMicky:
Hi Matt, Welcome to the "Grazed Knuckles" brigade. Regarding the carbs and tank, I left my bike standing for approx. 11 years, inside of tank was perfectly ok, fuel had 'gone off', just cleaned tap and replaced fuel line from tank to carbs. The carbs, now that's a different ball game! Removing them is a bit of a pain, but nowhere near as bad as trying to remove the float bowls whilst still installed. Because I had not drained the float bowls either, every jet had to be replaced, and I then refitted carbs only to find fuel running from overflow tubes when first turned on! I had omitted to remove and clean the brass spindles that the floats pivot upon, all gunged up and stopping the floats from operating. Whilst carbs are removed, have a dig through all the auction sites as I managed to obtain a nice set of socket headed screws to secure the float bowls with, meaning that if needed, the bowls can be removed more easily in situ using a small Allen key. Not too sure about your driver's footrest position, and it's definitely got the wrong gear lever, it should have two rose joints and a Johnson Rod for adjustment. Obviously the battery on mine was knackered, so every few weeks I just used to spin the motor over by using a set of 'jump' leads hooked up to my car battery, stops all the seals from going too hard. If you go on the "Flickr" website and just type in 400/4 there are loads of pics, which if you zoom in on them you can see what I mean re. gear linkage/footrest, might be worth checking on the rear brake pedal as well, it should have a guard fitted to it to stop your foot rubbing on the clutch cover.
Regards the front brake, as they say in the trade:- "They all do that mate", remove caliper, new piston & seal, clean up the pivot pin and coat it with copperslip anti-seize on re-assembly. Have fun. Regards, Mick.
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