Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
As TrickyMicky suggested, unplug the switch wires from the loom in the headlamp shell and romove the switch assembly. The connections are held in place by some small screws. Best to do this on a tray so you don't lose anything. There's a couple of ball bearings and small springs so be careful. Clean everything up so the contacts are all nice and shiny. Resolder any wires that look iffy. Reassemble using grease to hold the springs and ball bearings in place.They're a lot easier to repair than Suzuki switches.Hope this helps.
3-D printing, anyone? $15 shipped. Looks like I've got some research to do...https://www.shapeways.com/product/RDM6ZT62Y/cb550-starter-switch-housing-replacement?li=shareProduct
Great, when i looked at the link i thought it was priced in £ so guessed it was UK but then you should never assume.Go for it i think all that type of switch has the same starter button.The difference is that early bike with lights on/off had a solenoid that had power with key on and was grounded at the bars but later bikes had no light switch as lights came on with key(US rules) and the solenoid had a permanent ground and was fed power from the button which turned lights off at same time to give starting current.
DS sells both original and pattern 400/4 switch modules.
I bought new switch assembles from DS and they are exactly the same as the old ones although of course 'new' and therefore without the rubbing off of paint as you'd have with used parts. It does sound though that you may have a problem with cable length for your higher bars.You may have to go the US breaker route to get the parts you need.