Author Topic: Cam Chain Adjusting  (Read 5991 times)

Offline Bryanj

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Cam Chain Adjusting
« on: May 13, 2008, 12:38:46 PM »
OK there are many different methods in Honda manuals for adjusting the cam chain but here is a method i have used for 30+ years which works as long as the tensioner is operating as it should and the camchain still has useable life.

(1) Find a method of turning the crankshaft, this can be
    (a) Kickstart
    (b) spanner on nut on end of crank
    (c) rotating back wheel in gear

Or any other none destructive method you can find.

(2) Put pressure onto your turning method so that the engine is just about to turn but not quite turning.

(3) This is the difficult bit, Whilst holding that engine possition loosen the cam chain adjuster locking bolt/nut and re-tighten. That is the bolt/nut that actualy locks the tensioner not the one that stops the lock undoing!

If the chain is stilll noisy try again in a different position, if its still noisy either the adjuster is siezesd or at its limit and/or the camchain needs replacing.

Have fun.
 ;D

Offline SteveD CB500K0

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Re: Cam Chain Adjusting
« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2008, 04:36:00 PM »
Does this work with the engine in any position? (and no, I don't mean "upside down on the floor!)

So all this TDC on #1 is a load of ****, just try different places until it's quiet?

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Offline Dave M

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Re: Cam Chain Adjusting
« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2008, 05:33:59 PM »
I always thought that it should work in any position as long as the chain opposite the tensioner is under tension with no slack in it.

The important thing, as Bryan says, is to get the engine just on the point of turning so all the slack is on the tensioner side and then release the tensioner.

Job's a good 'un. Thanks for that Bryan.
Dave
Melbourne.

Offline Bryanj

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Re: Cam Chain Adjusting
« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2008, 06:55:13 AM »
Steve, if you want to do it upside down on the floor then yes it will work!---just be careful you dont strain anything the dearly beloved wants to keep!!!

As Dave sez the IMPORTANT bit is to get the engine just about to turn so that all the slack is on the tensioner side, this is what Honda are trying to do by specifying different positions of the crank, i just find it easier with a spanner

Offline Dave M

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Re: Cam Chain Adjusting
« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2008, 08:02:16 AM »
3 hands help too!
Dave
Melbourne.

Offline Bryanj

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Re: Cam Chain Adjusting
« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2008, 05:34:41 PM »
Nah, Dave, the original post said "First find a trained spider with a mechanical bent" Also useful for re-fitting 500/550 cam covers!

Offline SteveD CB500K0

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Re: Cam Chain Adjusting
« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2008, 07:01:49 PM »
spider with a mechanical bent

A mechanical bent what?


We should have QOTM on this site!
2022 Tiger Sport 660
1971 CB500K0

Offline Bryanj

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Re: Cam Chain Adjusting
« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2008, 05:14:43 PM »
Ah Steve that is the ultimate question, to which the answer is not 42.

I did know but the years have passed and the grey cells have been Guinesssed repeatedly(if you can get away with tappety-----) so there is no longer any sense or knowledge

Offline Yoshi823

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Re: Cam Chain Adjusting
« Reply #8 on: November 21, 2009, 11:33:32 PM »
I found that the info in the owners book for my CB750F2 was quite incorrect.It said to adjust the camchain with the engine running...just loosen the locknut and back off the bolt that operates against the sliding part of the tensioner.
But this never worked...it made the camchain noise worse.
I always found that the best way was to position the crank into the 'T' position for #1 and 4.Make sure that the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke by making sure that the tappet adjusters are loose ie.as if you were going to adjust the tappet gaps.
Then turn the engine 15 degrees clockwise after the #1&4 'T' mark.This is equivalent to the trailing edge of the timing post for the auto advance/retard spring post.
Once the engine is in this position,loosen the locknut on the camchain tensioner.
On the 500/550 fours I always just gave the centre screw adjuster a tap with the end of a small hammer.
On the 750 fours I just undid the bolt that locked the tensioner shaft,the spring would push the shaft against tensioner blade.The locknut could then be 'nipped up'.

This procedure always worked,rather than guessing where the engine might put the least tension on the cam chain.
Bikes...they're in the blood.
Yamaha R1 2001
Yamaha FZR1000R EXUP 1990
KTM 450 EXC RFS 2004
Honda XR400R 1997
Honda CB125T2 1980
Yamaha FJ1200 3XW 1991

 

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