Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
To cut through the shell marketing bullox, those two are more or less the same spec as each other. They both meet diesel rating of CF too.The statement for the shell " uses both mineral and synthetic base stock" is more or less there to justify a higher price. Neirher should give a problem, bulk is significantly cheaper to by if you're going to use the quantity.
I'd be comfortable using that in a Honda bike engine, although realise that opinions can vary considerably on such a subject "Shell Helix HX7 10W-40 - 5LtrShell Helix HX7 with its unique cleansing technology, goes on cleansing and protecting to help keep your engine clean and running efficiently. Formulated with synthetic technology, Shell Helix HX7 makes use of both synthetic and mineral base stocks to achieve higher performance levels than can be formulated from mineral oils alone. It provides excellent resistance to degradation to help maintain protection throughout the oil-drain interval. It also helps to reduce evaporation to help provide low oil consumption" That part about "synthetic technology " is really kind of code for it's not really synthetic at all It's a basic good quality, correct viscosity oil that's suitable. Better I'd not make it too much of an oil thread I suppose.Location, yes we're often around and passing you not so many times as I'd like on the bike though. I usually stop by Newlands corner if near for a bike fix though on a weekend. I'm fine to meet up though for a general natter about these old bikes, or help / assistance if you needed to get heads together on anything. It's good seeing them out and running well.
So long as the leads go to either cylinder 1 or 4 and that's from the 1-4 coil then no, same applies to the 2-3 coil, either lead to either 2 or 3. You may find however that one lead will reach and the other may not, if either reach I'd advise not to trim them unless the lead is really long, you can always cut away but you can't add. Honda use what's called a wasted spark system so both lead will fire when the points open not just one like a car. Any sign of the points plate and switch yet Woody, I have the tracking receipt in my pocket and I want to know if I can throw it.
Pretty sure the loom connections will be fine, there are in a small box just below the coils, watch the screw holding the lid on, it rounds off for fun if your not careful. Drop some grease on the threads when you refit it.Considering the parcel was posted first class signed for that's not good service from the PO, should have been with you well before that.
Its to tell you are jis not phillips or pozi.Good luck with the insulator clips, them must NOT be any wider or it will cause air leaks
Where to start 98 mains and 38 pilot jets are correct for a 550F. I presume you've ordered a set of Viton O-Rings for the carbs, they'll need Viton because the new fuel has Ethanol in it and the old style O-Rings really don't like Ethanol. Julie on here sells the kits. She also sells the figure 8 links for the vacuum adjusters. Whoever put all that black gunk all over the main jet clearly did that because the O-Ring actually holds it in place, as they age they shrink and thus the jet starts to drop out, stupid really but it it what it is, you'll need a new main jet, shame as I just sold a set of 98 mains I'd had for years and years. According to Honda the clip on the needle should be on number 2. However they fail to say from the top or the bottom but I'd imagine it was the top. If so those are correct. Can't remember now what size those screws are holding the needle in place, might be 3mm, might even be 2mm. Have you measured one? I've used these clips with good results, https://www.stainlessmiddleton.co.uk/34313-hose-clamps Extra narrow 31-51mm. Not the cheapest but really nice looking clamps, you want them tight but not too tight. If your replacing the hoses you'll need Vitrile hosing. Just bought some for my carbs so I'll look what sizes I bought etc and let you know. How far you go to restoring the carbs is up to you. Doing a really good job involves have some of the parts BZP plated, these include the butterfly and connecting rod etc, all the choke linkages, springs etc. Takes time and a little money and a whole lot of patience and effort but looks really nice after.
Seems that currently the view is that original Kiehin jets are simply more accurate than alternative replacements. Which is highly desirable for such fine metering these carbs have to do.If the main jet is just one that has the outside a bit tatty it would be worth filing off the sharp burr and using that with new o-rings, as oddjob indicates, to get a full working set.The damage hasn't impacted the critical surfaces as far as I can see from your pictures.Nice work so far, it'll definitely pay off when running again.