Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
Now years back in UK you could buy cable inner, outer and brass end fittings to make your own. Would you like me to see if i can get the stuff and ship to you?
Thats where the fun starts, you have to birdsnest the ends and usualy use a small gas torch not iron
I take it that you have examined the clutch basket and springs, on my rebuild there was deep grooves in the fingers of the clutch basket that made the action difficult, I obtained a used replacement that has helped. Assuming all adjustments are correct, have you got the correct springs, have you measured them. Also, I route the cable through an eyelett as per the routing guide it didn't have one when I bought the bike.
The plates only have to move literally less than 0.5mm each to effect a release, sounds ok to me. The most movement is at the first clamp plate that the springs enact upon as that has to move to give the total cumulative distance for the clutch pack to rotate freely. I feel notches generally give problems with drive takup as opposed to lever operation, as if a single plate "hangs" a bit on a notch, it first makes it slip, followed by the clutch grabbing faster as it pings off its resistance to fully close. Not convinced this will make it heavy to use.
So I don't have a clutch nut removal tool - I'll either have to buy or make one
QuoteSo I don't have a clutch nut removal tool - I'll either have to buy or make oneThat's very easy to make...