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Then add in the reliability of LED factor...
Quote from: Lobo on August 12, 2020, 11:17:30 PMThen add in the reliability of LED factor... Maybe you can explain, I see quite some cars that have only one side lit (DRL). I would not expect to much reliability of Chinese products. I myself will not buy any product from China, be it for more than one reason... The tabulation of ampères in reply #5 is all too simple and may lead to confusion. Riding we'll see a higher voltage than the theoretical 12V, which implies less current drawn. The 15A main fuse has proved to be quite capable of dealing with the 55/60 Watts H4 on mine for the last 40 years...Furthermore there's more needed to have a good vision (beam pattern) than just replacing an incandescent bulb by a LED. Leds need their own, special projectors. Here's a question, I have not solved yet. Due to a lame PA switch, I sometimes had both filaments in the H4 on. On entering a tunnel, I would detect this by the lit blue idiot light. I've fixed the PA switch some years ago. But te question remains: why did it not blow the 15A fuse?
55 + 60 = 115W. 115W @ 12v = 9.5A. 115w @ 14v = 8.2A.
Sye... whilst power divided by volts indeed gives amps it’s not the full story when resistance is then bought into the equation. Your post fails to explain why lamps brighten as you increase the voltage - which you’ll know from 1st hand experience. The current (A) actually increases as you increase the voltage through the filament...the power rating of a lamp will be only be valid at the stated voltage . Anyways, please don’t take my word on it, but rather google the explanation.Yea, Deltarider, horses for courses. I’m gonna take a punt on the LED headlamp bulb, and will report back in due course. They annoyingly come in pairs... so if fail early I’ll have a spare 😂.Trig... you say you’ve got LED replacement ‘globes’.... how are they performing?