Z1A - Electric Boogaloo

[MrDavo]

In the dark and distant past I used to use Scotchclips, Halfords crimp on bullet connectors, and even that old favourite, two wires twisted together and wrapped in insulting tape. Then I wondered why I had no lights in the dead of night, or why my bike had just stopped in the middle of nowhere.

I think things took a turn for the better when I became a radio ham, and learned to solder, and make proper connections. Doing my Z1A restoration, I am damned if I am going back to my old ways, I want every connection to be like factory. I found most of a new loom in the boxes, which was a big help, but have found a couple of issues. First was when I went to replace the bow tie shaped centre loom, which is made of brightly coloured spaghetti and fits snugly behind the electrical plate. There were a couple of non standard  bullet connectors, but when I removed the socket from the rectifier to the white plug, I found this horror:





Clearly the plug has overheated and burned out where the black wire attached, it was cut both sides and a nasty crimp on connector added, there must have been a short bridge wire that bypassed the plug and repaired the bike at the time. The centre loom has the necessary white plug, What I need is a new white socket, properly attached to my rectifier. Is there any firm or talented forum member who could take this on, as well as source the correct socket?, I'll happily pay to have it done right.

I've seen a couple of DIY automotive block connector kits on the bay of fleas, but they don't look at all compatible with Kawasaki connector blocks.

I don't want to go down the solid state regulator / rectifier route, before you ask, not the least because I have found a genuine NOS voltage regulator in one of the boxes. CMS list that at a jolly  Eu191.00 (if they had one, which they don't), the rectifier they do have, but at Eu155.00 plus p&p I'd rather pass on that and see if mine works for now, thankyou. If not I'll have to sell a kidney, the wife's car or something.

The other electrical snafu is the lead from the alternator coils. It came used, with a D&K looking label saying 'Z900' attached. The 3 wires are different colours, not yellow, but as far as I am aware that doesn't matter. What does matter is the aforementioned Halfords bullets, plus the connectors on the neutral switch and oil pressure switch which are going in the bin whatever happens.



As before if there is a firm or member who can put the original blue plug on, please tell me. If not, I'm minded to buy this short loom from Zpower:
http://www.z-power.co.uk/alternator-wiring-loom-z1-z1000

and solder the three yellow wires to the cut originals, probably very close to the coils  where they wouldn't ever flex (the original connections are encapsulated in expoy, I'd rather leave them alone), and insulate the joins with heatshrink.

[Bryanj]

The problem is finding the correct connector blocks as unfortunately there is no such thing as a standard on shapes of these.
I found i was going to have to change both halves for the early 500 round pin alternator plug till i tripped over a stator complete

[royhall]

I would give ZPower a call and explain the problem Dave. I am sure they will have a solution to your problem or put you onto someone that does.

[AshimotoK0]

Worth asking these people or Z1Enterprises perhaps.

http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Connectors

[baggins]

The guy that runs this website is also a Kawasaki specialist, he might be worth an e-mail.
https://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk

[robvangulik]

www.rdae.nl
Rick Donkers Auto Electrics

[MrDavo]

Thanks for the links, I’ll look through them. It seems that on the whole the connector blocks aren’t separately available, as opposed to generic ones. The way to go seems to be a used rectifier with a good connector (as far as I can see rectifiers work or they don’t, I can test them), plus that lead from Z Power for the alternator, which I’m sure is what they’ll suggest.

[JamesH]

Dave - pretty sure I've got one of the blue leads left over from a previous project. Should be able to check this evening.

[MrDavo]

Thanks James, I’ll hold off ordering anything until I’ve heard from you.

[MrDavo]

A used Z1 rectifier is winging its way from D&K. I was a bit confused that new ones, (where available and very £££)  don't have a black wire going through the white connector block, but instead a long black lead going straight to the battery -ve terminal. Apparently lots of Zeds fried that connector, due to poor connections causing heat and sparks, so they modified the arrangement and updated the part, including the one I am buying.

James any joy with that alternator lead?

[JamesH]

Dave I’ve definitely got it - just can’t find it in the home stash (must be in my off site workshop). If you’re in a massive rush, grab it from z-power. But if I have it it’s yours FOC - just cover post. Might not be until weekend until I can confirm. J

[MrDavo]

That’s great, thanks very much James, I can easily find another job to do while you find it.

I’m ordering some other odds and sods from Zpower, but didn’t want to end up with two leads, I already have two of the x shaped centre looms, after buying something I already had. I take it that rectifiers get too hot for paint, as even new ones look a bit rough.

[MrDavo]

All sorted! Blue plug because James H has kindly offered me a new alternator lead in place of my nasty one with crimp connectors, white plug because I got a used rectifier from D&K. That came this morning, as it was possibly the last nice day this week, working from home was abandoned for the day and I set to work.

I first tested the rectifier with the multimeter, at first it seemed dead until I realised that elastictrickery was not passing through the layer of crud on the earth terminal. A bit of fine wet and dry sorted that out, then all was well - full current one way on each wire, nothing when I reversed the polarity. There was some rust on the rectifier plates, I always assumed they were unpainted until I saw where the original silver paint (complete with Mitsibushi logo) had been protected by the rubber mounting damper. Then the OCD kicked in, so I carefully removed the rust with a fine wire brush on my new Chinese dremel and sprayed some Simonize silver engine paint on. I removed the original knackered wiring and fitted one of my two new sublooms.

Bracket paint touched up, replacement rectifier and wiring fitted. The fuse was 15A and the glass was broken, but there were two original 20A ones hiding in the rubber damper.



That done I couldn't resist fitting it, also my brand new regulator was fitted under the battery box and plugged into the green plug. The alternator plug is the blue one, the orange one goes to the main loom. These OEM electrical block connectors may be a beggar to source, but the make wring a lot simpler than the usual fight with coloured spaghetti that I am used to, A flasher relay has been ordered, that slips on to a tag on the left of the bracket.

[JamesH]

Very nice indeed!

[JamesH]

Dave, I have checked bloody everywhere but can’t find the lead. I know I’ve got it, but I know you’re time limited so think it’s best you go ahead and get one from z-power. Apologies.

I have, however, found a few other bits I didn’t use. Will take some pics and send to you...