SOHC.co.uk Forums > Project Board
1977 400F2 first restore project
Laverda Dave:
The link works👍. I was following that bike on eBay. A very good basis to start from. You may need to grind the ends of the circlip pliars as the circlip is really buried deep in the master cylinder. It will also be full of crud making it difficult to get a grip with the pliars. Give it a good clean before you start and use a pick to remove the crud before going in with the pliars, character building stuff!
Bryanj:
I developed a tecnique for getting those out which involved a gas torch and a vice.
Rip out rge wire clip and top hat rubber then with master in vice point the torch flame down the hole towards circlip till alloy is warm, keep torch moving so even heating.
This will normally dispose of the crusty corrosion, especially if wd is sprayed down there whilst hot BUT dont do this inside the house as the smoke and smell is obnoxious AND it may just start a minor conflagration.
Get the circlip to spin in the groove before attempting to remove.
Stripped 10 masters in 30 minutes doing it this way
smoothoperator:
Thanks for the encouragement about the bike choice. Just ordered some circlip pliers, funny to think I might be taking my angle grinder to them when they arrive! Due to this hiatus I have at least been regularly squirting plus gas then alternating with evaporust and I can now see the circlip holes. The cylinder moves more freely now and with the Master back on the bars the lever travels all the way back. The cylinder returns on the spring. Heating whilst in a vice will have to wait whilst I build a bench and stick a vice on it. First time project remember. The spare, I think original master is in more of a bad way so I have it soaking in plus gas and set to one side for the time being. Thanks for your help.
smoothoperator:
Managed to get the Master cylinder apart, internals looked good so gave it all a good clean and put it back together. Refitted and filled with fluid which went through with some pumps on the brake lever however no fluid is making its way to the caliper. Pressure was building up on the brake lever and the flow of bubbles turned into a flow of liquid from the hole nearest the instruments. The hole in the master cylinder that is. So next step is to remove the unit that holds the brake pressure switch. This is proving to be a bit of a pig so I've given it a rest for a while. Also I could do with a socket extension to get at the upper banjo. I need to check the hoses are clear but I'd be surprised to find them blocked.
Laverda Dave:
Have you had the caliper apart? If not it might be worth it but make sure you soak the bleed nipple before attempting to remove it. You may also have to apply some heat as well, they are very, very easy to snap. If the nipple is stiff turn it slightly the other way first (to tighten it), this normally allows any rust around the thread to break free prior to undoing it normally. The bleed nipple needs to be opened and closed again a good few times when you fill the system with fluid otherwise you will get an air lock. The brake light switch shouldn't give you any problems, I've never seen one leak at the thread and from memory I think the thread has a slight taper to ensure it seals (others with more knowledge may correct me here!). Always use new copper washers as well (or anneal and clean the old ones). A tip I was given some time ago if a system is proving hard to bleed is to pull the brake lever back to the bars and place a zip tie over it and the handlebar and leave it overnight. This forces air up into the master cylinder, it works!
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version