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How do you avoid over wintering clutch sticking syndrome?

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taysidedragon:
How about pulling in the clutch and rolling the bike a few feet forward and backwards, in and out of gear now and again. That movement and operation should keep it from sticking too badly.

K2-K6:
It has to be in gear and clutch pulled to spin the interleaved plates and free one from another.

I favour oil change (service? ) prior to winter storage. Then with plugs out and light oil in the bores,  spin it over on starter until oil's pressure gets light out and also with clutch pulled.
Engine oils in use accumulate byproducts of combustion which include acids (suplhuric predominantly) from the sulphur in petrol.  Although it's chemically buffered to accommodate this,  I feel desirable to store it with new oil inside to take best advantage of corrosion inhibiting quality available. 
The oil in the bores also gives good storate conditions too.

Don't run it during storage,  just keep battery up to scratch with charger.  Restart in spring,  rock it to release clutch and ready for the fine weather.

K2-K6:
Forgot to add,  it seems that if you strip clutches after they've been stuck for a long time,  then there are witness marks of fine corrosion which I feel contribute to them being stuck.

Hence the view on oil condition and possible corrosion inhibiting effects. It would seem to hold more logic in changing oil prior to storage rather than when recommisioning as cost is the same but promotes better storage conditions. 

That's if you intend changing oil annually.

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