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Aside from your mates overtaking you and activating your kill switch it has always baffled me as to its purpose.I do not recall any of my Mopeds,Scooters or British Bikes having such a device though my memory could be defective. That said if its fitted I want it to work!
You’re on the right track; you need to place the Red probe onto the B/W wire under the tank, and the Black probe onto the battery negative (or KNOWN good Earth). (Black circle in the pic). The ignition will need to be ON.The B/W wire has two possible connectors you can use; either the one in the ‘boot’ forward LHS of the tank (Blue circle in the pic).... or by the coils where the feed splits (Red circle in the pic). (you do not need to disconnect the connectors, tho’ a slightly lower voltage reading will result)An odd failure: my early guess is that the kill switch (or it’s wiring) has failed in the past, and the PO has simply directly connected the coils to the ignition, bypassing the kill switch circuit.To test the Kill Switch functioning, you’ll need to disconnect both its Black and B/W connectors within the boot. (These are both within the Blue circle). (To set the meter select the lowest Ohms range, and touch the probes together - you should see close to 0 ohms.)Now put the probes across the Black MALE and B/W FEMALE connectors of the kill switch, and check its continuity in the OFF / ON / OFF positions. In OFF you should see Infinite ohms (open circuit), and in ON you should see close to 0 ohms. Wiggle the handlebars / loom whilst doing this check, see if anything changes... bad loom etc.The Kill switch is indeed a pain to remove / service. As a starter for 10 it might just be worth shooting a good squirt of WD40 into into any nearby switch orifice!Good luck...PS - whilst the safety implications are obvious, in this current state of ‘permanent’ Kill function ON you may burn out a coil / flatten the battery when the ignition is ON & engine not running for any length of time.
Just studied the pics, it looks like the PO has removed the kill switch from the wiring as Lobo suspected. For some reason the last pic where you’ve removed all the wires from the loom you’ve left a male black/white wire still connected to a black female. Honda and most other manufacturers used plastic sleeving to cover all wires which held power, these were normally female. So you could disconnect these wires and they wouldn’t short on the frame blowing a fuse. All wires which tapped into this power were uninsulated except for a small covering where the connector was attached to the wire. So if it’s bare it’s usually dead. Now the right hand switch has a covered black/white as when the male blacks are connected it feeds the kill switch, with the switch on power comes back down the black/white hence the insulation. This should connect to the male black/white you can see in the last pic connected to the black, this goes into the loom and comes out again near the coils as a twin female, this feeds the coils, so kill switch off and no power down the black/white so no power to coils, engine stops.Sorry if this sounds a repeat of some of the advice already given but it explains why Honda did things like this