Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
Ash, have a look at this, just seen it while scrolling through eBay.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233882340721?hash=item3674794d71:g:w5MAAOSwal5YLw6rit's a tool used to re-fit the 'rivet pin' I'm sure i would be able to make one of these easy enough at work.All we would need then is a new pin, but again i think that would be fairly straight forward.If all goes to plan it will save a fair bit of money.
That appears to be a lot of time trouble and risk to save a one time difference of £24 Ash. It's bad enough when Genuine parts are not available, but when you can get them it must be worth the cost. If a cam chain lets go at high revs it's goodbye engine.
From my limited racing experience the steel idlers whilst last longer and probably keepin a more uniform chain tension are noisier and sound harsher.Rebuilt a fair few "learner" 250 versions with shattered rings and a couple with siezed cams the lessons from these are 1 do not thrash the engine from cold2 clea the cetrifugal filter regulary, i would say every other oil change and do inspect closely as the "sludge" looks just like its part of the alloy casting3 make sure the circular cover over the filter is refitted correctly4 be prepared to line the points cover with tape as the points can sort out on the cover.Apart from that give yourself plenty of time to stop as whilst that front tls was good in the day its not realy, also make sure linings are not detaching