Author Topic: Fitting cylinder barrels - more difficult with the engine case in the frame?  (Read 706 times)

Online McCabe-Thiele (Ted)

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Looking ahead to when I have to fit the pistons & barrels I was thinking how much easier it would be to fit the engine into the frame beforehand as it will be a bit lighter & easier to manoever into position.

Does it make fitting the block & pistons harder when the casing is in the frame?


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Offline Nurse Julie

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Its much easier doing the way you plan Ted. There is plenty of room and clearance to get the pistons / barrels / head etc on with the bottom end already in the frame.
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Offline 400 Cafe Racer

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Looking ahead to when I have to fit the pistons & barrels I was thinking how much easier it would be to fit the engine into the frame beforehand as it will be a bit lighter & easier to manoever into position.

Does it make fitting the block & pistons harder when the casing is in the frame?

Hi Ted,

Those piston gudgeon circlips can be little sods to get in and have a strong spring action as you may have found when removing the old ones. As a precaution I decided to fit the circlips to the pistons before putting the rods on the crank to ensure nothing would fly off and disappear into the crankcase. Once the engine is in the frame you can't invert it to "tip out" any nasties that drop in there.

As Julie says, for weight reasons it is easier to handle the engine into the frame just part built without the block. My thoughts for myself were, that i would rather not be putting the circlips in place with it is already in the frame. I just wrapped the pistons well and padded all gaps during the lifting in process.

I put the sump on before lifting in, and placed a small trolley jack (padded) under the frame ready to take the weight of the engine while aligning to get the mounting bolts in line.

Just my way FWIW.

Good luck with the rest of the assembly. :)

Dennis

Retired Automotive Engineer   MIMI, MITRE, DMS, MCMI.

Latest    - 1979 CB400/4  Cafe Racer - Parakeet Yellow
              - 1939 Velocette GTP 250 twin port Two stroke

1988-91 - Lamborghini Countach QV replica design and
                 build - 3000hr spare time project

In 1956 at 12yrs old and dirt tracking
              - 1937 Rudge 500 4 valve
              - 1940s Royal Enfield 225sv
              -  Ex WD Norton 500sv

Online McCabe-Thiele (Ted)

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Looking ahead to when I have to fit the pistons & barrels I was thinking how much easier it would be to fit the engine into the frame beforehand as it will be a bit lighter & easier to manoever into position.

Does it make fitting the block & pistons harder when the casing is in the frame?

Hi Ted,

Those piston gudgeon circlips can be little sods to get in and have a strong spring action as you may have found when removing the old ones. As a precaution I decided to fit the circlips to the pistons before putting the rods on the crank to ensure nothing would fly off and disappear into the crankcase. Once the engine is in the frame you can't invert it to "tip out" any nasties that drop in there.

As Julie says, for weight reasons it is easier to handle the engine into the frame just part built without the block. My thoughts for myself were, that i would rather not be putting the circlips in place with it is already in the frame. I just wrapped the pistons well and padded all gaps during the lifting in process.

I put the sump on before lifting in, and placed a small trolley jack (padded) under the frame ready to take the weight of the engine while aligning to get the mounting bolts in line.

Just my way FWIW.

Good luck with the rest of the assembly. :)

Dennis

That sounds very logical I will do the same - thanks for the tip.
Just one further question can it be done with the oil filter housing in place or must it be off - it's such a useful handhold when moving an engine around?
« Last Edit: August 16, 2021, 12:19:54 PM by Macabethiele (Ted) »
Honda CB500 K1 (new pit dug out ready)
Honda CB400 four super sport (first money pit)
Link to my full restoration http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,23291.0.html
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151576.msg1731556.html#msg1731556

Offline Bryanj

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If no top end it can be done but the angle is wierd

Offline 400 Cafe Racer

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Looking ahead to when I have to fit the pistons & barrels I was thinking how much easier it would be to fit the engine into the frame beforehand as it will be a bit lighter & easier to manoever into position.

Does it make fitting the block & pistons harder when the casing is in the frame?

Hi Ted,

Those piston gudgeon circlips can be little sods to get in and have a strong spring action as you may have found when removing the old ones. As a precaution I decided to fit the circlips to the pistons before putting the rods on the crank to ensure nothing would fly off and disappear into the crankcase. Once the engine is in the frame you can't invert it to "tip out" any nasties that drop in there.

As Julie says, for weight reasons it is easier to handle the engine into the frame just part built without the block. My thoughts for myself were, that i would rather not be putting the circlips in place with it is already in the frame. I just wrapped the pistons well and padded all gaps during the lifting in process.

I put the sump on before lifting in, and placed a small trolley jack (padded) under the frame ready to take the weight of the engine while aligning to get the mounting bolts in line.

Just my way FWIW.

Good luck with the rest of the assembly. :)

Dennis

That sounds very logical I will do the same - thanks for the tip.
Just one further question can it be done with the oil filter housing in place or must it be off - it's such a useful handhold when moving an engine around?

Hi Ted,
I left the filter housing off.
Retired Automotive Engineer   MIMI, MITRE, DMS, MCMI.

Latest    - 1979 CB400/4  Cafe Racer - Parakeet Yellow
              - 1939 Velocette GTP 250 twin port Two stroke

1988-91 - Lamborghini Countach QV replica design and
                 build - 3000hr spare time project

In 1956 at 12yrs old and dirt tracking
              - 1937 Rudge 500 4 valve
              - 1940s Royal Enfield 225sv
              -  Ex WD Norton 500sv

 

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