What is correct cable route on 400/4 clutch cable ?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Does the wire type clip near the offside tank rubber mounting hold just the throttle cables or is it okay to run the clutch cable through it?

My clutch cable route is down from the front lever through the gap  between the front forks & speedo mount  bracket - it passes past the  front of the ignition switch and curves nicely via the clip to the clutch casing adjuster. I have a nice free operation but some pics seem to show the cable not running between frame & fuel tank.

 

[Deano400]

The way you've done it sounds right Ted.
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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

The way you've done it sounds right Ted.
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Thanks for that - those schematic sketches are very useful. Ted

[Sesman]

Hey Ted.

I can’t comment on the cable route, but the bike is looking really smart. Buy yourself a decent heater and keep the pressure up. But I thought you had a blue frame?

[Sesman]

 Apologies, it was Deans

[400 Cafe Racer]

Does the wire type clip near the offside tank rubber mounting hold just the throttle cables or is it okay to run the clutch cable through it?

My clutch cable route is down from the front lever through the gap  between the front forks & speedo mount  bracket - it passes past the  front of the ignition switch and curves nicely via the clip to the clutch casing adjuster. I have a nice free operation but some pics seem to show the cable not running between frame & fuel tank.

Hi Ted,

I  think you are probably right to go with the sketch, but just for the record, I found my old cable had suffered severe internal friction/binding even though it would pass oil all the way through. The problem area was where it passes through the  chrome guide on the cylinder head. My conclusion was excessive heat transfer from the cylinder head (very hot) at this one point, causing breakdown of the lining.

Solution for me FWIW, route it just to the right of the guide and leave it free. I don't think it needs any extra support it is so rigid. No heat traansfer is then possible.

Cheers 

Dennis

[Deano400]

Hi Dennis.
Not sure if your chrome guide has one fitted but the guide should have a heat insulator inside the guide to stop the cable coming in contact with the metal. Part number 45466-329-000, available from DS or CMS if you need one.
John

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I have no chrome guide/bracket on the cylinder head or cam cover where should the bracket be bolted?

I've not found the bracket in the parts book do you have a part number by any chance?

[TrickyMicky]

I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head.  Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir".  Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave!  First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Looks like the bracket is discontinued it might be 45467-329-00 looks right as item 217 in parts book its next to 216 the cable guide 45466-329-000.

Description calls it a brake cable guide so maybe not?

[400 Cafe Racer]

Hi Dennis.
Not sure if your chrome guide has one fitted but the guide should have a heat insulator inside the guide to stop the cable coming in contact with the metal. Part number 45466-329-000, available from DS or CMS if you need one.
John

Hi Deano,

Yes thanks, it has the insulator fitted, which I think avoids full heat transfer, but try touching it with a hot engine. I also felt that just holding the cable that close to the very hot cyl head with heat radiation was just a bad move and would heat the cable un-necessarily, when it could just be unclipped in free air. I took the evidence from my failed cable, which was in good condition apart from heat stress inside. Just my opinion FWIW.

Cheers 

Dennis

[400 Cafe Racer]

I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head.  Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir".  Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave!  First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!

Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ??

Dennis

[400 Cafe Racer]

Looks like the bracket is discontinued it might be 45467-329-00 looks right as item 217 in parts book its next to 216 the cable guide 45466-329-000.

Description calls it a brake cable guide so maybe not?

Hi Ted,

Here is a picture attached if it of any help.

Dennis

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Thanks for the photo Dennis - mine is definitely missing.

If I can't find a used one I might have to look at making something that keeps it away from the engine.

[TrickyMicky]

I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head.  Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir".  Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave!  First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!

Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ??

Dennis

Yes Dennis, I think it's the price we pay for having everything all tucked away, out of sight, neat and tidy. Many years ago I owned a CB750 K2, and the clutch cable was routed down one of the front down tubes, tucked in nicely between Nos. 3 & 4 Header pipes, under the points cover, and entered the clutch housing next to the lower frame tube.  For relaxation these days, I am playing with a 1966 CL160, nice long sweeps on cables, all visible, and out of harms way. The instruction book even tells you that you can oil these cables, how quaint!!!  Just to finish off my rant, the ONLY piece of plastic on this machine is the rear light lens. Such is progress eh?