Cross drilled discs

[allankelly1]

Yeah, I saw that the other nigh, it looks bloody splendid when you poke it all together and the brake pedal too and on the bike. That's one pretty bike with some ace mods on. When I get my new workshop in the new house I'm hoping to have a bit more space so the lathe will be out...............finaly! Its an old sh**ter but its lovely to work on. 
Can't wait to put some ideas into practice and watching the threads you put up have proper fired me up. Your work puts mine in the amateur category but I love doing it all the same. I got notification that the steel-dragon air box has been shipped from the states so I'm about three nights in the shed away from a finished 400!

Keep up the photo posts mate, I'm loving ths one its brilliant!

Forgot to mention,
My eldest nephew saw that piccy of the your 400 under he streetlamp you posted a while ago and on the back of that he's booked his test!! He was blown away by it, well done Allan, another one in the club

Yes that photo took my breath away too as it was taken by my darling wife in secret and sent to me

Here is another secret piccy

Not quite the same but still very nice




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[Laverdaroo]

By, thats a bloody lovely bike that is. Tell her to keep taking them

[allankelly1]

Yes next one will be with the rear disc mod dome and all three discs drilled

(Also may have some YSS piggy back shocks fitted too)

Maybe even may have that 460cc motor fitted but that going to need deep pocket


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[Laverdaroo]

Easy tiger

Im struggling to find suitable shocks to go on the 550, the TEC ones are spoken of quite highly but they've been out of stock for ever. I've had Hagons which I thought were a bit, meh so looking for options without spending a fortune, for a piggy back pair at the min.

[allankelly1]

Yes I know YSS shocks are a tad expensive but love the look of piggy back shocks

Also will to do some changes to the front end such as fitting the race tech kit for the CB400F than as the correct springs and emulators and already have an idea for some adjustable preload units built from scratch

So may ideas and so little spare cash


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[Laverdaroo]

I dont know why I dont just buy em and stop faffing about, I know I'll end up with a set before the builds done
I'd be interested in looking at your emulators when you've fathomed it out.

[allankelly1]

Yes I would be interested

Also now I have the Dresda box section swing arm that runs on taper bearings things with good shocks at the back. There should be a better back end hence needing to sort out the front

Catch up soon Al


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[Laverdaroo]

Theyd do that on a mill wouldnt they Ken, surely?
By the way I'm not trained on a lathe either 

I use this chap for my bits ne bobs and he did teh snapped bolt extraction and thred replacement for me. His workshop is like the spaceship Enterprise. He's wel regarded down this way and always really busy doing his core work on cranks and teh likes but he does stuff when you ask hiom and he's more thanqualified, some of the stuff he manages in there is awesome.
 Ask for Dave and tell him its me thats put you onto him, he should be really helpful. He's a 'one and a half' man band so you'll get his answerphone more than likely but he always rings you back.

https://www.dyengineservices.co.uk/

[Laverdaroo]

It's the same down here. Lathe is circular motion, a mill has the part clamped flat and the bit moves over it, hence straight lines etc are achievable. Bit of a monster router if you like.
You have to sift  through a few to get a good one but some of the instructional vids on You tube are invaluable, even just for hacks. The 'Shermans' tend to go into the nth degree and piss about with 32nds and 64th's and it gets very confusing but some of the british lot are quite good. I tend to look when I need to as once Youtube opens up I'm guaranteed a late night down an i'nfo worm hole'. If I have an issue or a question I'll look it up on there.
 Usually helps immensely.
 I learnt what little I know from playing on a pals; he bought a 6' bed 12 speed monster from the Vickers tank factory in Leeds when they flattened it. It's still running today and I think it was built in 1930 odd. When ypu build in the 'nod' of the chuck and build it into your equation its fine. Ive only got a bench top Clark jobby but its really good for the money. Ive put some bits on it like a better tool holder and a bracket to make the body more ridged but it t urns a treat. All I would say is that if youre going to invest, get one with metal gears as the plastic ones shatter just for fun.

I generally only make spindles and spacers and a few cupped brackets for this and that and the like, its terribly satisfying. Practice with nylon blanks first and when happy fire out one in steel or ally.  Be warned, once you start you'll find stuff that needs making on the lathe every day. Terribly, terribly addictive!
 

[K2-K6]

"Mill or Lathe it's all the same to me, no idea how they work, I'm looking for a night time course on them near me but bo one seems to do it, which is weird."

Yep, as above Lathe turns the material and tool stays still, everything comes out roundy roundy and normally concentric  if all the bearings are ok.

Mill, the material is clamped with the tool spinning (various shapes) to generate ordinarily flat surfaces in it's basic form.

Disc slots,  you'd ordinarily use a slot mill/end mill bit (like a drill bit but flat end usually) to drop into surface and move the disc along to make the slot.
Just a face slot with blind ends (finishing within the boundaries of the brake surface) you'd probably use a bull nose (rounded tip) end mill to give the slot radius and not leave sharp stress raisers at slot ends.
Slot going to the end of brake surface less critical and so could be square in form shape. We often did this to rear disc on 750s when contemporary as it clears the disc of crud in wet weather effectively, and going right to the outside will expell rain and dirt really well. Often you'd see this type of slot on rally car discs for conditions they run in.

For the holes, on a mill Allan mentioned you'd use a device a bit like a record player in orientation that's mounted on mill bed. Then fix the disc to it and you can rotate the disc prescribed amounts (with a handle and index plate) to make holes dispersed around the disc based on inbuilt geometry of the indexing plate. It's quite easy for someone with the right kit.

As mentioned about metalwork machining, went to see a college with my son a couple of years ago and get shown round the facilities. Walked through a big workshop with 20 lathe and 10 mill machines and I quote the guide " yeah these old machines you won't get to use, nobody trains on them now"    sadly, most only want to learn computer driven headline processes now.

[K2-K6]

To OP, my understanding is that the diameter of hole equal to thickness (plus twice that in distance in between hole borders) relates to cast steel/iron disc materials such as this in photo

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Stainless being far more tolerant and ductile is generally acceptable at much more geometric compromise without risk.

[Laverdaroo]

Blimey, that looks a little shagged out!

I simply and rather shamelessly copied another design and worked out the dims from what I had. I tried to get a course booked some years ago but pretty much faced the same issue as you, I'm searching for a tig welding course at the minuter but part from taking an NVQ but they're far and few between also. I reckon I'll just buy one and crack on practising, what could possibly;y go wrong

I've always done that; have a problem, cant find a solution................teach yerself. When its you paying for it you soon learn quickly and you can always ask. I've mostly found people really helpful if I've needed to  and there is the never ending resource that is the internet.

I made one cock up hole on the disk shopwn but its staying on as a reminder, Im just on with setting up a jig for doing the 550 disce, (doing a twin front) so we'll see how that goes but I'm fairly confident abd rather looking forward to it if I'm honest. The chap I mentioned earlier, Dave at DY skims the discs for me and last time I think I was ripped off) knows what he's on with. It cost me a whole jar of coffee, some yorkshire tea bags AND some chocky hobnobs!

I made my displeasure felt

Wouldnt have minded but didnt even get a brew, the swine!

[allankelly1]

Hi Roo

What do you think??

Don’t you love SolidWorks

Holes are patterned in sets of 3
with a second set of three that are pitched so the total pad area other than the outside and inside edges are covered and holes are only 6mm with plenty of space between holes to insure  disc integrity






Currently todays just been diagnosed with a slipped disc that I seem to have suffered about three weeks ago but up to now I managed work and home life  with loads of different coloured smarties ever two hours for the last three weeks but now got surgery booked for two weeks time. Then once  back to full strength after Xmas (as they said is about a six week recovery) I will modify my spare disc first shown below to see how it goes.

But in the mean time things ain’t too bad as Hopefully next week the other bits from my mate with the CNC will arrive and now I am a bit fooked up I most likely will farm our the disc locker unit too to him





Catch up soon and stay healthy

Best wishes Al


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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Not to knock what you want to do Allan but certainly on cars holes & fancy grooves are mainly cosmetic unless you are track racing - the big gain is from vented & ceramic discs on cars.

They look cool so I can buy into the cosmetic appeal.

[taysidedragon]

Good luck with the slipped disc op. Make sure you drill the steel disc later, not the boney ones. 🤞