Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
Thanks gents. Nige, slightly struggling with your explanation/ logic as surely a torqued nut/bolt combination will behave as a ‘unit’, though I agree the fastener end planer forces will be higher at the floating end of the casting…Maybe I’ve the wrong D washers, but certainly they provide no restrictions to the passage or siting of the bolt through the constant bore size….. as I mentioned; they’re currently rattling! (bolts tight but not checked wrt torque value yet)
Thanks Nige / Ken; I guess I’ll just stick with the parts manual drawings; if for no other reason than originality.I’m away from the bike now for a couple of weeks; but do balk at doing the clampings up ‘D washer tight’: yesterday evening I went to my comfort limit wrt what I reckon a M8 Stanchion bolt in an alloy casting should take. (I did though pre-measure the D washers at 2.3mm thickness - maybe there’s an issue here?)I’ll stick a torque wrench on it later and double check my wrist calibration…Cheers!
Tips pls on compressing the rear shock springs wrt dismantling the units? Have looked eBay but concerned the jaws of all I see too bulky to engage the lower part of the spring (ie next to the damper)Have tried 4x decent tie-wraps and ratcheting down… but too much force required methinks.
Thanks Gareth: pretty certain of no issues other than my reluctance perhaps. I did consider the fresh paint within the yolk; but I did have to Dremel-scotchbrite much of that away simply to get the stanchions through. A bit of me still wonders whether the D washers are undersized?Seabe.. like the sound of that and will give it a try. Many thanks.
You may be vastly overstating this,