Stuck screw in clutch cover

[Oddjob]

Something wrong there Alez, far too much thread showing, it may have been really badly cross threaded and that's why it was so locked.

Should have tried heat at the same time as the grips, most things will move that way.

[alexdecker]

Something wrong there Alez, far too much thread showing, it may have been really badly cross threaded and that's why it was so locked.

Should have tried heat at the same time as the grips, most things will move that way.

Oh I did, I really did. I blasted it with fire. It just kept its place. Not sure what to do now though… actually never tried a screw that sat in there so tight and seized up.

[Oddjob]

You can try and drill it out but it will probably end up needing an helicoil or something similar.

[sye]

Spark erosion will work. Search to see if there's anywhere near you.

Alternatively, a good welder may be able to weld a bolt onto what's left?

[philward]

I think if its stuck in that bad, welding anything will just end up with the same situation as before.
I think your only option is drilling it out. You need a good flat surface to drill and the key is a good central starting point - use a spring loaded centre punch to punch dead centre of the screw. Use a good quality Colbalt drill in a variable speed drill, starting at 3mm going up to the 6mm tapping size (5.0mm).
To reiterate, the key is drilling central and square as if you are off centre, the drill will go to the softest material and vere towards and grip into the alloy case.
Going straight to the helicoil option gives you more tolerence as you will drill the entire screw out when using the helicoil tapping size drill - you have more tolerence in being slighly off centre. Always good to have an M6 Helicoil kit in your tool kit as it will always come in handy.
Don't get too down about it Alex, we have all been there.
Maybe worth looking on Youtube to see the helicoiing process to give you confidence
Hope that helps

[murdock]

si no te sientes seguro de resolverlo , dejalo , agrega un poco de sellajuntas y tal vez no pierda , algun dia lo quitaras con la destreza y herramientas adecuadas


if you don't feel confident in resolving it, leave it alone, add a little sealant and it may not leak, one day you will remove it with the right tools and skill.

[alexdecker]

si no te sientes seguro de resolverlo , dejalo , agrega un poco de sellajuntas y tal vez no pierda , algun dia lo quitaras con la destreza y herramientas adecuadas


if you don't feel confident in resolving it, leave it alone, add a little sealant and it may not leak, one day you will remove it with the right tools and skill.

Yes, I was honestly thinking about that as well. But still. I have the whole engine apart, so might as well to it now. Anyways, it broke off at a point where I can still take the rest of the engine apart, so I'll do that for now

[paul G]

If there is enough sticking out, get a slightly bigger nut and get it welded on with plenty of weld in the nut.
The heat from the welding will be far more than you put on it before and more direct, this normally breaks the bond between the bolt and the case.
Never failed for me 

[alexdecker]

If there is enough sticking out, get a slightly bigger nut and get it welded on with plenty of weld in the nut.
The heat from the welding will be far more than you put on it before and more direct, this normally breaks the bond between the bolt and the case.
Never failed for me 

I considered taking it to a welder for exactly that. But hard to imagine anyone else putting more stress on it than I have already. Id be worried enough is sticking out to weld it without hitting the surface, which needs to be kept clean so it can still seal. But will have to see what others can do. It would seem I am out of my own league on this one

[Nurse Julie]

Once you have stripped the engine completely, try clamping the stud in a vice, apply lots of heat to the case at the stuck end of the screw and turn the whole case, it may just give you enough leverage to break the bond. What heat source are you using? A normal little hand held gas cylinder like plumbers use will be of no use. You need a proper gas cylinder or even oxyacetylene.

[Spitfire]

It was at this stage with my cylinder head that I wimped out and took it to the local engine (car) shop, I tried the hot cold, treatment, the violence, the penetrting oil  but when I ended up with a stud broken off flush I knew it was time for me to quit, the cost of taking it to someone else was peanuts, the cost if I messed up would have been far greater.


Cheers

Dennis

[alexdecker]

It was at this stage with my cylinder head that I wimped out and took it to the local engine (car) shop, I tried the hot cold, treatment, the violence, the penetrting oil  but when I ended up with a stud broken off flush I knew it was time for me to quit, the cost of taking it to someone else was peanuts, the cost if I messed up would have been far greater.


Cheers

Dennis

Seems like the exact stage I am at right now Dennis!

Did he get it out with threads intact, or how did your situation end up?

[K2-K6]

For your clutch one Alex, if you can get a nut (10mm) onto the stud, then get it welded to the stud down in the recess to fully bond the nut and stud together and effectively give you a bolt.

Then, don't try to undo it with torque, use a drill/screwdriver (specifically not an impact driver) and use it with a socket adaptor to persistently rattle the stud anti-clockwise. It may take time but it should eventually and gently loosen the stud. The heat from welding it will help too.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If as it appears you are stripping the whole engine down I would press on with the dismantling see if any other bolts are going to be difficult then see if any other engineering jobs need doing then decide if it worth going to an engineering firm to get any issues that arise done.

FWIW I could not get the big Crank case bolts undone as my cordless impact gun did not have enough torque for the larger bolts. A friend came to my assistance with his Mulwarkee Industrial Cordless Impact tool and they all came out easily. A local engineering firm put a pair of Helicoils in the casing for the tensioner arm as I did not trust myself to do them. (One was stripped)
I even bought a spare casing as insurance just in case it all went wrong. Nice to have a spare if I ever needed it - it came in handy when I had an issue with gearshift movement as a comparison and source of gear parts that I did not use in the end.

[Spitfire]

It was at this stage with my cylinder head that I wimped out and took it to the local engine (car) shop, I tried the hot cold, treatment, the violence, the penetrting oil  but when I ended up with a stud broken off flush I knew it was time for me to quit, the cost of taking it to someone else was peanuts, the cost if I messed up would have been far greater.


Cheers

Dennis

Seems like the exact stage I am at right now Dennis!

Did he get it out with threads intact, or how did your situation end up?

Drilled out and an insert fitted, the bike had sat for ten years and what had started out as a quick turnaround ended up taking me two years, luckily when I took the top end apart the only thing that needed attention apart from the stud was one stuck piston ring


Cheers

Dennis