Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
Does anyone know if the springs change their rate with use when they get 'slack' on the auto advance? I have loads of used auto-advancers for various bikes and a few NOS ones including the 500/4, CB450 K0 bomber and CB250/350K.I just built a test rig for where I work, which uses a linear stepper motor, load and displacement transducers inputted into an Agilent VEE based PC XY plotter, primarily to test the force/displacement characteristics of the solenoid coils we use....... but it will be ideal for measuring the spring rates of small tension or compression springs (Max force is about 20kgs)
I’m a bit confused by this one and I’m watching and learning. I thought Erny began this thread stating he had a very obvious and extremely lean burn? This may have precipitated his subsequent query about appropriate air boxes/filters. Purely out of interest, would a single tooth cam timing error create this lean mixture situation?Sounds like poor Erny will have to start a sequential diagnostic programme…..cam timing….ignition timing and advance…valve settings….fuel supply. This will then only leave the carbs and air system?Just wondering…
If I may contribute with my story:Back in 2019, I was working on low RPM hesitation/too rich problem with my CB550K1 / 022A carbs (engine hesitating in lower RPMs and felt like too rich)Finaly I fixed that:1. I first replaced points and advancer by Boyer ignition (I kept stock coils). Result - engine hesitation at lower RPMs almost gone! This for me confirms Mark's advice with worn/annealed advancer springs as Boyer has built in advance/retard in ECU. Checked with strobo, it now works as it should. But back to this topic reported too LEAN by RBoss - I think that advancer spring issue is rather too rich "effect". I discussed that with Mark Paris too BTW 2. Too rich problem was caused by corroded emulsification tubes (genuine Keihin) that had bigger ID holes due to corrosion. Replacement by new Keyster (OEM needleds kept) and later by new genuine OEM set (tube+needle) fixed that. Engine now runs smooth on idle and also very smooth from idle RPMs, it picks from ~1500-2000 RPM smoothly. Current issue is that it is too lean now (only tubes and needles changed, jets are the same)
Honda never supplied the springs seperate