CB550k1 US Import - UK registration

[Oddjob]

It appears from the parts book that the 550K1 didn't get the double thickness plate OR the larger tagged friction plate that the later models did.

[Bryanj]

It didnt originaly but this is a US import and you know the yanks will swap anything with anything that nearly fits.
As to clutch plates try it first it may well not need them

[Oddjob]

If you need some I have loads of them.

[juitz]

If you need some I have loads of them.

My only concern is the unknown history of the bike. No service, mileage records and given the state of other parts I feel like I should just play it safe and get new friction plates. The clutch assy still had oil in it, but I don't know how good or bad the friction material condition is.

I'd rather save the money, but I'd also rather not have to strip the engine and clutch after the first ride 😂

[Oddjob]

Look at them, are the corks disintegrating? How thick are they? Are they still in spec?. Don't replace them just because you think you should, they ain't exactly cheap BUT they are fairly easy to change even with the engine in the frame so it's not a disaster if they do start to slip.

As I said, IF you do need some I have a bucket full of them. Also have pressure plates, measure them as well.

Clutch plates on these bikes seem to last for ages, mine are still in after over 160K and my other bike has the original plates with over 250K on them.

[juitz]

They look ok, I'm just playing it safe.

I'll measure them up on the weekend - will have to invest in a new set of verniers though as the cheapo pair I bought randomly offsets +/- 5mm when it goes above 10mm and won't turn off. Not very trustworthy...

[juitz]

Hi guys, currently putting an eye watering expensive basket through David Silvers Spares.

Noticed that they have a Vesrah vg-155 gasket kit - this is the recommended one correct?

[Laverdaroo]

Thats the one I got Dave, although you will need to get a honda OE clutch gasket separately as the one that comes with it is a really bad fit.

[juitz]

Hi Roo,

To confirm, are you referring to 11394-390-000?

[Laverdaroo]

Aarp, that's eeee'.

The one that came with mine was utter crap and the holes were miles out, about 31/2mm which is loads.

Bin!

[juitz]

Aarp, that's eeee'.

The one that came with mine was utter crap and the holes were miles out, about 31/2mm which is loads.

Bin!

Cheers bud!

[juitz]

Shiny shiny engine parts are now back. They look so much better, and now its time to start the rebuild.
Not sure on paint but am leaning to keeping it all silver using VHT paint.

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Im trying to size up the Conrod bearing clearances to replace them, but am a bit unsure on the key / bearing tang to exahust side  in the manual.

Is the way i have it in the picture correct?
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[mickwinf]

that looks correct as the genuine Honda manual says both tabs on bearings on same side and pointing to exhaust side.

[Bryanj]

Cant really tell how you have it in that pic, but the locating tangs top and cap have to be on the same side and that side should be the front of the engine

[juitz]

Thanks Mick.

Looking at the manual on how to select bearing shells for Conrods, I've got:
2D, 2D, 2D, 3D
All shaft pin diametere are 34.99

I've plastigauged rod one between the cap and bearing and between bearing and pin. Both measured 0.038mm clearance.

I'm not sure where to go from here though as the manual has bearing selection based on the rod stampings and pin diametera. Can't find where in the manual the clearances come in to select the correct shell?

If I go by the manual, I need 6 brown and 2 greens.