CB550k1 US Import - UK registration

[Bryanj]

Dont forget some of the cam cover bolts need to be button head, if you use cap you cant fit, or undo, some of the tappet caps!

[juitz]

Dont forget some of the cam cover bolts need to be button head, if you use cap you cant fit, or undo, some of the tappet caps!

Yeah thanks Brian. I took a few hours earlier today compiled a list of all the bolts i wanted to replace with either cap head or button.

[juitz]

I bought a kit for mine bur didnt use it Dave, you need it posting up?

Sent you a PM

[Oddjob]

You can also use the later style 8mm headed bolts that Honda are still using on their engines today. Don't use allen key bolts as the hole for the allen key fills with water and rusts the bolt. Some 6mm stainless bolts now come 8mm headed, like ProBolt for instance. Expensive though but have a look around.

[juitz]

Hello all,

I want to replace the o-ring on the oil-pump cover. I missed this previously as it's not shown in the parts list (pump is shown as a single assy).


From this thread part number is 91305-426-003 http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=112985.0

Just want to confirm this is correct

[Sesman]

Try nursejulie. I’m pretty sure she stocks the pump orings.

[Nurse Julie]

Indeed I do stock them.
PM me and I will give a discount and do post at cost.

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[Bryanj]

HINT remove the cover screws whilst pump still on engine

[juitz]

Thanks all 

Next question! Is this spring oriented correctly, hard to tell from the part list image.

[juitz]

Thanks all 

Next question! Is this shift mech spring oriented correctly, hard to tell from the part list image.

[Bryanj]

Looks it to me

[juitz]

Hi all,

Need a bit of guidance/tips as I'm struggling to do the static points adjustment.

- I've checked the spark advance mechncam position, and the dot on the cam is on the same side as the TEC marking and hole (which i think is correct).
- I've installed the spark advance mechanism and points assembly, rotated the crank until the points are open at their widest, adjusted the airgap to 0.350mm using shims.
- Using multimeter continuity I am trying to get the points to open at the cylinder1-4 F marking, but the points open around the two markings that show || 1.4 before the F and T marks.
- Tried to rotate the entire ignition assembly but this doesn't have enough adjustment.
- I've tried both original and aftermarket points. Crank is rotated clockwise.


What am I missing or doing wrong here?

Thanks!

[Oddjob]

Explain the shims comment as there are no shims for the points? You just loosen the screw holding the points to the plate and use a screwdriver to alter the gap, around 14-16 thou iirc. I always use a dwell meter to set the point gap as you can do it whilst the engines running. I’d do the gap as above for the initial setting though. Try lowering the gap a little, seem to recall Nigel recommending 12 thou. Don’t do metric sorry, old school.

[juitz]

Explain the shims comment as there are no shims for the points? You just loosen the screw holding the points to the plate and use a screwdriver to alter the gap, around 14-16 thou iirc. I always use a dwell meter to set the point gap as you can do it whilst the engines running. I’d do the gap as above for the initial setting though. Try lowering the gap a little, seem to recall Nigel recommending 12 thou. Don’t do metric sorry, old school.

Sorry - meant feeler gauge instead of shims!

I've adjusted the airgap by undoing the screw holding the points to the main plate. Tighten up then rotate crank unti 1-4 F mark.

Tried with smaller airgap - 0.3mm (12 thou) instead of the 0.35mm (14 thou). But still no luck. Wondering if the cam is not right.
Photo is where points open.

[Oddjob]

Check the advance/retard unit, can you see a number next to where the spring mounts to the left of the 1-4 marking? Just turn the crank clockwise a little and if it’s there you should spot it. There are 2 types of advance/retard mechanisms and on one the dot goes on the same side as the Tec marking but on the other it’s on the opposite side.