CB550k1 US Import - UK registration

[Orcade-Ian]

Whilst doing a bit more zinc plating I had the chance to measure things - on mine the shafts are 8.5 mm down the rocker spindle bore and the pegs with the O Rings protrude 6.5 mm from the end cap casting, so there is approximately a 2 mm gap.  The peg diameter is about 11.5 mm so a 3mm section O ring would compress to push both shafts tight up to the shoulder - not sure if that would eliminate rotation though.  Not sure I'm sufficiently concerned anyway with the mileages I'll be doing!

Ian

[Bryanj]

Ian, the yanks just stuff an O ring down the hole fore the pin to push on and stop rotation

[Orcade-Ian]

Thanks Bryan,
That was my conclusion - might not do any good but certainly can't do any harm, which is always the safest option.

Ian

[Seabeowner]

There were the 4 long shafts on the 500 rockers up to 2006337 and then they switched to the 8 short shafts which went right through the 550s also up to around the F2 and  K3s according to parts list. All three of the 500/550 engines that I've had apart recently have the 8 shafts.
I bought a kit from DSS to uprate to the 4 pinned shafts for one of mine. (kit comes with cover, shafts and pins, but not rockers). 12300-390-305

[Sesman]

That’s not correct. The later models had 4 long shafts, pinned. Just like the attached.

[Bryanj]

That part number says discontinued now

[Oddjob]

Think CMS got the description wrong on that Seabeowner, never seen a 500 with 4 shafts, they’ve always had 8. The 4 long shafts are still available if you look hard enough and the fact the part number is higher at the end means that the longer ones are the revised part number, meaning they were produced after the shorter ones, I seem to recall the 500 k2 got the longer ones as standard as the ovalling problem had reared it’s head by then. The 500k3 got the longer ones but they were pegged like the 550 ones.

I’d love to know what exactly DS sold you as if you already had the pegged shafts I can’t see how you could improve on that, are you saying you had the old style top cover like the 500 and they sold you a later style cover from a 550 with the pegged shafts? If so I’ll bet that wasn’t cheap

[juitz]

Just done a couple of starter motors. I swapped the original cable method with what you describe, a simple stainless steel nut and bolt, I used a socket bolt for clearance inside the starter motor.

Debris inside the casings is common, it's the residue of the carbon brushes inside.

If you look at the 500 parts book instead of the 550K3 one, same starter motor essentially, then it gives the dimensions of both, I know I just bought a load of them as I have 5 or 6 starter motors to refurbish.

Seeing this is common BTW



Not a great idea to leave it like that as a couple of the strands are close to touching the motor body.

I cleaned up everything, totally dismantled the motor including taking the windings out of the body, cleaning the armature etc, replaced the screws holding the windings onto the body with stainless ones, removed the rust from the winding supports, removed all damage from end caps and resprayed with Simoniz silver paint etc

Came out like this





The cable was a temporary one I made to replace the battery to solenoid, I also found somewhere selling the rubber boots but that was after I took the pics, I'll cover the connectors with shrink wrap later as well.

Hi all,

Hope everyone is well. Been a little while since I've posted, life gets busy sometimes!

I've found the starter motor cable is too short to reach my electrical tray, and now will look to replace it with a longer one. Is it as easy as drilling out the cable and replacing it with a SS bolt as Oddjob as done?

[Oddjob]

The bushing that the cable sits in, to protect against shorts from cable to body, is made of bakolite or similar. It's very easy to damage and it chips easily.

IIRC, I cut the cable off right above this collar, I think I ground down the internal part where it's soldered to the cable inside, dismantled the starter then as before I don't think the cable would pull through that collar, you need to release it from the inside. Bit of heat and desoldered the remains of the cable.

Sorry it's a bit vague, it's been a while. I didn't drill it out IIRC, too much chance of damage.

[juitz]

I ground down the remaining cable to the body, and what's left is a stub with a collar.that you can press out. You're right that there's not much material to drill it out.

I'll try and desolder the stubby bit from internal winding. Worst case, I'll resolder a longer cable.

[Seabeowner]

That’s not correct. The later models had 4 long shafts, pinned. Just like the attached.

That's what I said, read more carefully. Information comes from which is Honda P/L that may be wrong and shows 4 long shafts for the early models but I've never taken apart an early one. So started with 4 shafts on the KO, then 8 shafts and then back to 4 pinned shafts. As I said I have the kit on SB08 from Aug 76.

[Sesman]

Aye, alright then.

[juitz]

Alright, at a total head scratch as no idea where this part belongs.

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It's not the rear drum brake pivot as that's already on?

[Nurse Julie]

Alright, at a total head scratch as no idea where this part belongs.

(Attachment Link)

It's not the rear drum brake pivot as that's already on?

On the end of the brake rod, just after the spring.

[Oddjob]

That looks to be as Julie says for the end of the brake rod BUT it also looks to be made of stainless, have you bought a set in stainless but found that piece was too small? Mine was.