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Thanks K2-K6Just dismantled the ignition switch and kill switch but no change.They were both clean. I now have 11.8v at the coils so its improved a bit but still no spark at all?
Also check the connections on the block connector the fuse box connects with. It's possible they were the fault in the first place and it was them failing and connecting with something it shouldn't that caused the fuse to blow.
A slack cam is no good at all! ATU weights should move out freely, springs free of any crud. Oil the pivot points perhaps. Also check out all screws holding points for 2 and 3 are tight, and re-check the gap. Clean the points. Check out all electrical connections to 2 and 3 points and check out the condensor - with ignition on and if it sparks when you open the points gap, then a possible condensor problem. Have you a spark across the points when it turns over?
Quick reality check, swap the two wires over coming from coils to points and see if the 2/3 coil fires then. It won't run at all but will show (with confirmed switching from the 1/4 points, if the 2/3 coil will make a spark) and which part of the system is working. It sounds like the small rod that secures the points cam may be bent. As my routine above, strip the points plate and advance mech, then spin the motor to see if the rod is bent (if so it can give all sorts of errors in points gap) and at least give a baseline to work from.
Definitely something wrong with securing the advance mech there. Agree the rod looks reasonably ok, but mech shouldn't be moving like that and with any real slack at all. You'll get no real accuracy in timing, gap and dwell to set it up correctly. Should have a washer under the six mm nut to secure the bigger nut, is there anything there ?