Back with a 500 ....

[Oddjob]

As I said Simon. Dry fit the trim. Put masking tape along the edges, both on the outside and inside of the tank. Put enough silicon in the U that when it fits it will squeeze out the excess, allow to cure for a few mins, good idea re putting some on to hold it in place TD, wet finger and smooth off the joint, then remove the masking tape along the edge which will take off the excess silicon and keep the paint free of it. That should do it and keep out any water used to wash the bike or if it rains.

Seriously Simon, learn the lesson I learnt the hard way, don't use the clips.

This may be my last piece of advice on the forum, this Sunday I will be leaving the forum for good, I have no axe to grind, there is no ulterior motive except to help you avoid what I did.

[SPR]

Ken

Good points all and explains a method well - I’ll be avoiding clips !!

Your advice is always on point to is of lesser knowledge and hopefully you will stay around

Simon


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[Laverdaroo]

Still shire typing even on this!

Bloody sausage fingers here!


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[K2-K6]

Still shire typing even on this!

Bloody sausage fingers here!


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I like "smelling pistakes"    is shire typing from bristol-shire 

[SPR]

I simply wouldn’t fit it as it looks gash in my opinion. Chrome is chrome, plastic coated metal of dubious quality doesn’t really do it for me especially as it’s a faff to fit, easily knackered and stuffs yer tank if not put on in a way and even then is a water trap. Each to his own though but personally after coughing up. For s paint job the lady thing is do is stick that garbage to it!
———————————————————————
Some will know why he’s going, some won’t but is a MASSIVE loss to this forum and a huge shame but I understand completely.


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It is actually exactly as fitted originally - in looks and fitment

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

It is actually exactly as fitted originally - in looks and fitment
[/quote]

Your post has been hijacked somewhat - fwiw the trim on my tank that I have removed ready for painting is a single piece of plastic with what looks like chrome tape in the middle.
 
It was glued on at each end with some sort of black soft adhesive - the section around the front steering column had come away from the tank  & would not stay in place around the curves as there were no retaining clips fitted.

Not sure if mine was missing on the 400 or if they did away with it - I did wonder about having it painted white like the stripe to match the tank stripes on my 500?

[Laverdaroo]

Still shire typing even on this!

Bloody sausage fingers here!


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I like "smelling pistakes"    is shire typing from bristol-shire 


Yup, I think so!
Serves me rght for 'triping' with my elbows

[Oddjob]

New ones were from a K3 David. The engines are identical, put 2 side by side and cover the numbers up and you wouldn't be able to spot the difference. It's not like putting a 550 in a 500 frame or vice versa. As I said IF it was so important, keep the original cases and sell them with the bike, let someone else have the expense of fixing them. £120 for a set of cases with marching shells, really good shells as well and a matching crankshaft is beyond a bargain, check ebay and see. Now you've got to pay for alloy welding and that's IF you can get the pins out, new shells, which if going by the state of the mains the rods will be buggered as well, that's 18 shells each around £20, another crank, ask Ted how much he paid for one, another £100-150, that's the fat part of £500-600. That's money you will NEVER get back, the 550 is not that collectable, it's not an investment bike like a 500K0 or even a 500K1 or a 750K0.

But it's your bike and your money and your choice.

Oh and it's a 550K1 not a 550K0 Julie. Not worth even half as much, not that the K0 is worth anything anyway.

Really sorry for the thread hijack Simon, I really wanted you to avoid the mistake I made with the clips, you have a lovely bike and it's important to me that you keep it that way, the 500 has always been MY bike, it's my first love so if I can keep one on the road that's worth going that little extra mile for. In an effort to stress how important it was to made I made that statement on your thread instead of starting a separate one which was always my intention. Sorry mate.

[SPR]

Really sorry for the thread hijack Simon, I really wanted you to avoid the mistake I made with the clips, you have a lovely bike and it's important to me that you keep it that way, the 500 has always been MY bike, it's my first love so if I can keep one on the road that's worth going that little extra mile for. In an effort to stress how important it was to made I made that statement on your thread instead of starting a separate one which was always my intention. Sorry mate.

As always Ken I'm greatful for the advice ....... I'm thinking of using Sikaflex 221 which I've used before to repair and make seals .. I think a bead of it would easily stick to the tank lip and then hold the trim etc .... it holds its shape better than silicone - if that makes sense - and might be less messy

Cheers

Simon

[Oddjob]

Fine Simon, anything you like as long as it's not those clips 

[davidcumbria]

New ones were from a K3 David. The engines are identical, put 2 side by side and cover the numbers up and you wouldn't be able to spot the difference. It's not like putting a 550 in a 500 frame or vice versa. As I said IF it was so important, keep the original cases and sell them with the bike, let someone else have the expense of fixing them. £120 for a set of cases with marching shells, really good shells as well and a matching crankshaft is beyond a bargain, check ebay and see. Now you've got to pay for alloy welding and that's IF you can get the pins out, new shells, which if going by the state of the mains the rods will be buggered as well, that's 18 shells each around £20, another crank, ask Ted how much he paid for one, another £100-150, that's the fat part of £500-600. That's money you will NEVER get back, the 550 is not that collectable, it's not an investment bike like a 500K0 or even a 500K1 or a 750K0.

But it's your bike and your money and your choice.

Oh and it's a 550K1 not a 550K0 Julie. Not worth even half as much, not that the K0 is worth anything anyway.

Really sorry for the thread hijack Simon, I really wanted you to avoid the mistake I made with the clips, you have a lovely bike and it's important to me that you keep it that way, the 500 has always been MY bike, it's my first love so if I can keep one on the road that's worth going that little extra mile for. In an effort to stress how important it was to made I made that statement on your thread instead of starting a separate one which was always my intention. Sorry mate.

Ken if you would like to keep in touch about this ( I haven’t yet got any idea on the sizes, cost or availability of shells for my  engine which is pretty crucial)  pls pm me your email since I  can’t message you. Sorry for the Thread hijack Simon

[davidcumbria]

Ken I’ve had chance to check out the bearings and it could be that I need the no longer available yellow ones,  cases stamped CBAAA. As you know I’m driving by your place tommorow so would be happy to pick up the bottom end and chuck in extra 20 quid for the hassle. You’ve got my phone number so let’s keep the discussion off here and text me if you’re interested.

[Trigger]

Ken I’ve had chance to check out the bearings and it could be that I need the no longer available yellow ones,  cases stamped CBAAA. As you know I’m driving by your place tommorow so would be happy to pick up the bottom end and chuck in extra 20 quid for the hassle. You’ve got my phone number so let’s keep the discussion off here and text me if you’re interested.

You can not use shells by letter stamping. The manual references are for new parts and not worn cranks

[Sesman]

Ken I’ve had chance to check out the bearings and it could be that I need the no longer available yellow ones,  cases stamped CBAAA. As you know I’m driving by your place tommorow so would be happy to pick up the bottom end and chuck in extra 20 quid for the hassle. You’ve got my phone number so let’s keep the discussion off here and text me if you’re interested.

You can not use shells by letter stamping. The manual references are for new parts and not worn cranks

Is that entirely correct Trigger? I’m just curious if this applies should the journals measure up as ‘relatively’ unworn. It’s just that the alpha/numeric method worked fine for me. I even plastigauged post bearing selection and it measured up. I’m not a trained mechanic by the way.

[Trigger]

Ken I’ve had chance to check out the bearings and it could be that I need the no longer available yellow ones,  cases stamped CBAAA. As you know I’m driving by your place tommorow so would be happy to pick up the bottom end and chuck in extra 20 quid for the hassle. You’ve got my phone number so let’s keep the discussion off here and text me if you’re interested.

You can not use shells by letter stamping. The manual references are for new parts and not worn cranks

Is that entirely correct Trigger? I’m just curious if this applies should the journals measure up as ‘relatively’ unworn. It’s just that the alpha/numeric method worked fine for me. I even plastigauged post bearing selection and it measured up. I’m not a trained mechanic by the way.

You went the correct way by plastigauging up everything and were lucky that the crank was not worn. Must of been a low mileage engine or had the correct oil changes.
I think it was Ash that bought a load of shells for one of his SOHC's and when he plastigauged the crank up he had to hunt for another size.
And the hundreds of SOHC's engines i have built, i would say at least 45% had worn cranks. Years ago you could always fine a good crank that was within spec but, as theses old girls get older it is not so easy these days.
In my old workshop years ago we used good cranks as door stops because we had so many on shelfing racks