Teds new project a CB500 K1 mostly version 0.5 circa 1972.

[Sesman]

Ted, I’m sure you are on to it, but it may pay to check the bottom yoke alignment. Damage like that is normally/usually the result of a collision. Just saying it’s worth a check while it’s off?

[Bryanj]

Im sure 400 forks are smaller diameter Ted

[K2-K6]

They bend if the bike falls off it's sidestsnd when stationary, not particularly strong.

It's usually the right one bent when the bike is parked with bars to left and "rolls" off the stand, or not fully stood onto stand securely.

You can heat it to bend back, but don't quench it afterwards.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Im sure 400 forks are smaller diameter Ted

Different part numbers so yes Brian not the same.

With the bent steering stop, slight damage to the top of the column where the top nut fits - might be worth trying to find a better one.
Looks like the part number might be 53200-323-020B

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

They bend if the bike falls off it's sidestsnd when stationary, not particularly strong.

It's usually the right one bent when the bike is parked with bars to left and "rolls" off the stand, or not fully stood onto stand securely.

You can heat it to bend back, but don't quench it afterwards.

I only have a Plumbers Calor Gas  Torch would this heat it enough or does it need Oxyacetalyne heat?

[Matt_Harrington]

They bend if the bike falls off it's sidestsnd when stationary, not particularly strong.

It's usually the right one bent when the bike is parked with bars to left and "rolls" off the stand, or not fully stood onto stand securely.

You can heat it to bend back, but don't quench it afterwards.

I only have a Plumbers Calor Gas  Torch would this heat it enough or does it need Oxyacetalyne heat?

MAPP gas might do it....
Matt

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

MAPP gas might do it....
Matt
[/quote]

Taking into account the minor top damage if they are about in the UK a used replacement might be the best option.

[K2-K6]

That may be hot enough as you've only to get it glowing dull red to get it moving. The very tip of the blue flame is hottest and will let you target the stop easily to try it. There's at least no risk of going over temperature, just that it may soak the heat out into the rest of the structure fast enough to prevent that bit getting hot enough. You'll soon see though if it's possible (if you do it in dim light you'd see colour change more easily) and just tap it gently with a metal hammer.

Roughly if it's red temp you should be able to gently tap it, yellow and it would push with a drift but doubt you'll get it to yellow with just gas.

It's pretty safe as the only risk is not getting warm enough to move.

If you don't want to tap the metal directly, then just place a ring spanner over the peg loosely and you can tap that to move it.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

That may be hot enough as you've only to get it glowing dull red to get it moving. The very tip of the blue flame is hottest and will let you target the stop easily to try it. There's at least no risk of going over temperature, just that it may soak the heat out into the rest of the structure fast enough to prevent that bit getting hot enough. You'll soon see though if it's possible (if you do it in dim light you'd see colour change more easily) and just tap it gently with a metal hammer.

Roughly if it's red temp you should be able to gently tap it, yellow and it would push with a drift but doubt you'll get it to yellow with just gas.

It's pretty safe as the only risk is not getting warm enough to move.

If you don't want to tap the metal directly, then just place a ring spanner over the peg loosely and you can tap that to move it.

Thanks for the information K2-K6 I will give it a try on Monday - I'm still left with the slight damage to the very top & a less than perfect thread.
Update: I'm going to fit a 550 column from Gary the top threads worry me. I can always play around with the original one later.

[Laverdaroo]

Get yerself a thread file Ted, fantastic bit of kit and used surprisingly often taking these old girls apart.

Saved me heaps being able to sort threads out on danaged parts.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Get yerself a thread file Ted, fantastic bit of kit and used surprisingly often taking these old girls apart.

Saved me heaps being able to sort threads out on danaged parts.

I bought one a couple of years ago but tbh I need to go on a course to learn how to use it never mind figure out which bit is for what thread.

[Laverdaroo]

Get a thread pitch finder like you can get in a tap and dye set, check what thread you have and the different sizes working surfaces are  written on each side of the file. When you use it you can feel when its working as you'll feel the vibrations and feels positive and you should see worked material dust on the vice underneath what youre working on. I only use it on a forward pushing stroke and have managed a 100% success rate. I bought a  brand new ecentric hub assembly for the VFR as the owner had cross threaded the big 50odd mm nut that goes in it really badly. Twenty minutes and it was as good as ever and now sitting on the bench ready to be fitted to the new rear arm I've had painted up ready to go on with the new shock and other gubbins I've got for it. Without the file the part was junk but its now virtually brand new.certainly looks it.

Every side is for a different pitch. Again, if you're not sure, get on You tube you'd be surprised what instruction you can find.

[flatfour]

Ted, I think that I have an undamaged top yoke for a 500/4. I replaced both on mine once the tester discovered that the lower was damaged on the lock stop.

If that's the case, you are welcome to it if you arrange collection from me (Norfolk). Previous experience does suggest that most carriers will allow you to organise it from your side, leaving me to simply pack it and hand to the courier.

Let me know and if you need it, I'll look in my stock of spares tomorrow.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

My top yoke is undamaged it's the column that's the problem - anyway thanks for the offer.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

The frame is now fully stripped & bits are ready for the powder coaters.
Just in the final phase of deciding which of two local firms I will use.
Still preparing the engine casings ready  for painting I'll be doing the home oven bake like I did on the 400 in the next two weeks. Gasket removal is wearing me down the one under cylinder block is only half done. Onwards & upwards.

My 550 steering column arrived today from Gary 👍👍👍