Teds new project a CB500 K1 mostly version 0.5 circa 1972.

[Nurse Julie]

I’ve fitted these seals to my 550 they’re 13mm deep instead of 11mm so fills that gap up by another 2mm

The listing does not give much detail are they double lipped with the springs fitted top & bottom?

not sure what you mean by spring top and bottom but they were the same as the old ones I took out apart from the extra 2mm in depth

The OEM seals are double spring. A dust spring on the top side and the oil spring on the underside.

[3scs]

I’ve fitted these seals to my 550 they’re 13mm deep instead of 11mm so fills that gap up by another 2mm

The listing does not give much detail are they double lipped with the springs fitted top & bottom?

not sure what you mean by spring top and bottom but they were the same as the old ones I took out apart from the extra 2mm in depth

The OEM seals are double spring. A dust spring on the top side and the oil spring on the underside.

oh I see never too old to learn 🤓

[Oddjob]

Ted, the Pyramids seals have just this minute arrived.

The difference in the stated depth is because they state the depth of the body of the seal at 13mm but they also include the depth including the upper lip of the seal, the part that touches the fork stanchion.

They are double lipped but no springs are visible at all, they appear to have sealed the springs inside the seal body, they weigh a lot more than standard seals due to this. I can expose one of the springs if I peel back part of the the rubber seal lip but the upper one is completely enclosed. Small packet of rubber grease included.

They look really good, I'd say go for them.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Advice taken Ken I'll order a set thank Bud.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Just realised I have not updated my 500 project for a while - front forks now re-assembled and back on the bike with new front mudguard etc in place.
Gear shafts  in place in the upper engine casing waiting for a pair of Brown mains from DS - Plastigauged existing Big End shells & all good.
Red assembly lube needs cleaning out - it is remnants from when the old crank was in place last year.

Did something to my lower back last week whilst working in the back garden & pond so presently being sensible until my back pain subsides - I'm going to see if I can hang by my arms from the garage loft hatch to help ease the pressure on my back - it used to work when I was younger.

.500 upper casing by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Matt_Harrington]

Perhaps hand the engine from your ankles? 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Perhaps hand the engine from your ankles? 

I'll need a pair of Manakles to do that Matt - yet more expense!

[K2-K6]

"Did something to my lower back last week whilst working in the back garden & pond so presently being sensible until my back pain subsides - I'm going to see if I can hang by my arms from the garage loft hatch to help ease the pressure on my back - it used to work when I was younger."

We have a little outside gym near us, set out in a nice parkland, that has overhead bars plus other parallels etc to do this on. A very simple but useful set that I've used for years. I think it's quite beneficial Ted.

Alternatively, I here tell there's various "personal service" providers that will perhaps offer a stricter regime  you have to be a previous television presenter or some such to gain entry though, or so I've heard 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Now fully recovered from my back injury (I hope) so today inspired by Dave's progress I have assembled the crank casing halves.
Hondabond applied thinly & tube from 2022 was still nice and spreadable.
All bolts tightened as per manual. Used existing bolts for under the engine - new SS normal bolts for the top as they are vissible.

Despite new bearings, drive chain & rubbers primary drive shaft fitted  into place without too much force being needed....phew.

Before I fitted the primary drive shaft when I had just fitted the lower casing bolts I packed the primary hub with a folded tea towel to prevent the starter clutch from separating from the drive hub when rotating the cases.

.500 casing progress by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[davidcumbria]

Excellent. Well done Ted. One of bottom smaller bolts next to the alternator has a bendable wire guide. No problem to fit it later.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Excellent. Well done Ted. One of bottom smaller bolts next to the alternator has a bendable wire guide. No problem to fit it later.

I know the clip you mean - thanks - I will look for it as it was not attached to my bolt storage system with the washer  - cardboard with holes in marking the layout of all the bolts for top & bottom cases.

Just fitted the bearing lock plate - mine had no washer just the 6 mm bolts - neither do I have the oil guide plate (item 3) photo E15 Page 34 ish - I assume that is for early models?

[Bryanj]

Is that the one goes at bottom inside clutch cover Ted, if so it was fitted to the ones after ther gearchange detent mod as in the buleletins.
Good work, told you the shaft was no problem mate

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

You were right both you & Ken about it not being too difficult to fit the primary drive shaft especially as I had previously done my 400 one - me overthinking as usual - looking for problems that did not present themselves. There might be a bonus in being oblivious to what might go wrong.   

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Is that the one goes at bottom inside clutch cover Ted, if so it was fitted to the ones after ther gearchange detent mod as in the buleletins.
Good work, told you the shaft was no problem mate

I don't have the ball bearing  in my gear shift tumbler - does that mean I should have the oil guide inside the clutch - can't s see a hole for the screw in my casing?

[Oddjob]

I think it uses one of the bolts that secure the lock plate in place Ted. Bottom one I think.