500 Hub thingies question.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

When I was cleaning my rear brake drum I notice three pairs of small rubber parts sticking through into the hub but nothing for the fourth pair at 3 o'clock in the photo below.

Is this anything to worry about - I'm assuming its something to do with the drive cushions in the rear sprocket side ?

.500 Hub rubber bits by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[florence]

It looks like the locating lugs from the drive cushion have broken off which might suggest the cushions themselves are perished.  I would have a look to make sure.

[Sesman]

Hi, Ted. Either the damper ‘nipples’ have sheared off or there is no damper cushion fitted.

Nothing to worry about, but I’d check the presence and condition of the rubbers. I replaced all mine on the 500 and 550 when I changed the bearings…the dampers were as hard as marble.

[florence]

also, at about 8 through to 6 o'clock, does it look like there is a gap between the drum liner and the hub?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

also, at about 8 through to 6 o'clock, does it look like there is a gap between the drum liner and the hub?

Trick of the photo / lighting.

[florence]

phew

[Oddjob]

I'd replace the wheel bearings at the same time Ted, bit of corrosion going on there.

The retainer ring holding the sprocket carrier on can be a bitch to remove without the special tool (and even with it sometimes) so watch yourself doing that one. Reverse thread BTW as well. Check for arrow showing direction to undo.

[Sesman]

I guess it depends what your intentions are Ted in terms of cost/value use and aspirations. Me, I’d dismantle, vapour blast and rebuild with new rim, spokes, bearings and dampers. You may even need a replacement rear sprocket. I’m from the do it once, do it almost right school, so don’t listen to me. The cost to rebuild both ends of my 550 F2 ran out at about £600 including tubes and tyres. Just saying…

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I'd replace the wheel bearings at the same time Ted, bit of corrosion going on there.

The retainer ring holding the sprocket carrier on can be a bitch to remove without the special (and even with it sometimes) so watch yourself doing that one. Reverse thread BTW as well. Check for arrow showing direction to undo.

Glad you mentioned that!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I guess it depends what your intentions are Ted in terms of cost/value use and aspirations. Me, I’d dismantle, vapour blast and rebuild with new rim, spokes, bearings and dampers. You may even need a replacement rear sprocket. I’m from the do it once, do it almost right school, so don’t listen to me. The cost to rebuild both ends of my 550 F2 ran out at about £600 including tubes and tyres. Just saying…

Hi Philip,
Plan A intention is to just do three things so I can try it on the road before the thorough strip down.
Stop rear hub binding - done.
Sort out throttle stiffness - in progress - found throttle pipe split inside / cables tight suspect the route.
Ensure front brake is safe enough for a shortish journey - done for now.

At present I'm looking at parts that I need to replace such as rear drive cushions, wheel bearings etc.
Pricing up full exhuast with all brackets & clamps (Gulp) then decide if I need to split the engine.
I'm looking at a 18-24 month rebuild depending on costs - this time I'll price stuff up fully before I strip her down.

Worst case scenario is it will be a useable but not a pretty ride.
Best case is I come up on Ernie and go the whole distance so it looks closer to yours.

Wrestling at present with the frame colour choice as want to avoid boring safe black.

[Sesman]

Roger,dodger, sounds like an excellent plan to me.

Frame colour….yes, I know what you mean.

Personally I like the satin black finish rather than gloss black. Of course any other colour may require a custom tank and panels colour too? Play it safe and go for black…boring, but utilitarian. But what do I know.

[Oddjob]

Whilst I prefer satin black on most things, a frame is always gloss black Phil  I will allow red on some bikes.

Couple of pointers Ted.

If buying exhausts DON'T buy the brackets as they are repros (unless DS has some originals) and are not the right angle to allow the exhausts to fit properly. I had to bend my BILs brackets to match my originals the other week, the connecting tube at the rear wouldn't fit, he had constant exhaust blows from the manifolds etc.

Find some second hand originals and have them powder coated. The upper brackets aren't too bad but the lower ones are well out.

Take the throttle tube off the handlebars and oil under it, look at the PDI instructions on site for the cable routings, especially clutch and throttle as the correct routing makes a huge difference to how they operate and feel.

If you need any new throttle cables let me know, I have a few lying around.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Thanks for the PDI tip regarding routes Ken.

[Sesman]

Na,gloss black is a dirty tykes colour..😀 Satin is classy, the thinking man’s black.

Any colour you like Ted, as long as it’s black. Paint it black, no going back.

[Seabeowner]

If buying exhausts DON'T buy the brackets as they are repros (unless DS has some originals) and are not the right angle to allow the exhausts to fit properly. I had to bend my BILs brackets to match my originals the other week, the connecting tube at the rear wouldn't fit, he had constant exhaust blows from the manifolds etc.

Find some second hand originals and have them powder coated. The upper brackets aren't too bad but the lower ones are well out.

I had the original brackets and still had to bend the lower n/s one to get the repro no 2 fitted. And the repro no 4 is a little further out from the bike along the run at the bottom.
Phil