I think the slides are in the wrong bodies

[Sesman]

Is it just two or all four?

[Sesman]

It’s hard to see on the photos, but if that’s 2 photos of cylinder 4, it looks to be correct. Eg cut out is on the inlet side?

[Sesman]

The carbs are obviously off. Those look very high to me if the actuator is in its static position!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

When I set my lifter heights I used the shank of a 3/16" drill bit using this video as a guide.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFTOfYl5BSc

[Sesman]

3/16” is good for the intake side, but I’d use 1/16” on the engine side.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

3/16” is good for the intake side, but I’d use 1/16” on the engine side.

You are right Philip I should have clarified that was on the intake side / air cleaner.

[Bryanj]

Trouble with intake side you are guestimating you are on the same bit of the curve, thats why i use the flat side

[Eldrick]

OK, I was wrong about the slides being back to front, what I have is a lack of knowledge as to what I am viewing and perhaps damaged slides.

I thought the gap everyone mentions was that little 'cut away' in my photo. Turns out that is just damage, all four slides have it so that led me to the wrong conclusion. That side is certainly the flat side.  I suspect some clown has been jamming a drill bit in there... 

I took the slides out or two bodies and behold, I saw the crescent moon, so, now I have filled gaps in my knowledge and I know my slides are correct. I did have trouble getting one to the base of the barrel so I just loosened everything. Discovered that the 'smiley face' butterfly things are all linked so I set them to look the same when closed.

Also found I could 'tighten my throttle cable' so to speak, using the nuts on the top near the throttle cable attachments. My throttle now does not have 20degrees of slack before it responds. I was able to rotate and lock the mechanism on the carbs using those nuts.

I adjusted the throttle stop too, so it stops when the slides are 1mm from the top of the barrel, the manual told me to do that. Pretty sure that part allowed me to get a slide to the bottom and ‘jam a drill bit in there’ after turning the tick over screw to raise it.

I put it all back together and started it up, have not took it for a run yet but I could get the bike to sit at 1200rpm. I will run it tomorrow and see if I can keep 1200rpm when the engine is at running temp, if not, when the engine is warm I will use the vacuum tune on it and see what I can get.

In the meantime, thanks for all the help.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

OK, I was wrong about the slides being back to front, what I have is a lack of knowledge as to what I am viewing and perhaps damaged slides.

I thought the gap everyone mentions was that little 'cut away' in my photo. Turns out that is just damage, all four slides have it so that led me to the wrong conclusion. That side is certainly the flat side.  I suspect some clown has been jamming a drill bit in there... 

I took the slides out or two bodies and behold, I saw the crescent moon, so, now I have filled gaps in my knowledge and I know my slides are correct. I did have trouble getting one to the base of the barrel so I just loosened everything. Discovered that the 'smiley face' butterfly things are all linked so I set them to look the same when closed.

Also found I could 'tighten my throttle cable' so to speak, using the nuts on the top near the throttle cable attachments. My throttle now does not have 20degrees of slack before it responds. I was able to rotate and lock the mechanism on the carbs using those nuts.

I adjusted the throttle stop too, so it stops when the slides are 1mm from the top of the barrel, the manual told me to do that. Pretty sure that part allowed me to get a slide to the bottom and ‘jam a drill bit in there’ after turning the tick over screw to raise it.

I put it all back together and started it up, have not took it for a run yet but I could get the bike to sit at 1200rpm. I will run it tomorrow and see if I can keep 1200rpm when the engine is at running temp, if not, when the engine is warm I will use the vacuum tune on it and see what I can get.

In the meantime, thanks for all the help.

Not convinced you are starting from the right point.

You mention damage,  what damage not in your photo?
Damaged sliders will not be a meaningfull  starting point.

You can't rely on them looking the same you need to start with all four sliders correctly set - did you watch the video link - that explains how you set them.

I found that you could close all four sliders completely by loosening the individual screws on the throttle links.
You can then start measuring the gap with a drill shank. If you fail to do this it will not run right on guesswork.
Once you have all four sliders correctly adjusted the large throttle stop screw will open them all by the correct equal amount.

It's not something you can rush if you are uncertaint what to do. Quite a few posts on here about how to set up the carbs.

[K2-K6]

"Also found I could 'tighten my throttle cable' so to speak, using the nuts on the top near the throttle cable attachments. My throttle now does not have 20degrees of slack before it responds. I was able to rotate and lock the mechanism on the carbs using those nuts."

Unsure if I've got the understanding of that correct.

The twistgrip must have some degree of slack when setup properly, this to avoid the throttle being pulled when you turn the steering left & right. Too tight and the throttle will open as you go from centre to full turn, also it'll likely pull the nipple off the end of the cable without a certain amount of space to operate.

These are specified in the manual.

[Bryanj]

"Jam a drill bit in there" is not what you do, you use the parallel shank part of a small drill bit as a feeler gauge

[Sesman]

🫣😣😳

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

🫣🤔🥺

[Nurse Julie]

😳😱😫🙄

[Sesman]

🤐