Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
3/16” is good for the intake side, but I’d use 1/16” on the engine side.
OK, I was wrong about the slides being back to front, what I have is a lack of knowledge as to what I am viewing and perhaps damaged slides.I thought the gap everyone mentions was that little 'cut away' in my photo. Turns out that is just damage, all four slides have it so that led me to the wrong conclusion. That side is certainly the flat side. I suspect some clown has been jamming a drill bit in there... I took the slides out or two bodies and behold, I saw the crescent moon, so, now I have filled gaps in my knowledge and I know my slides are correct. I did have trouble getting one to the base of the barrel so I just loosened everything. Discovered that the 'smiley face' butterfly things are all linked so I set them to look the same when closed.Also found I could 'tighten my throttle cable' so to speak, using the nuts on the top near the throttle cable attachments. My throttle now does not have 20degrees of slack before it responds. I was able to rotate and lock the mechanism on the carbs using those nuts.I adjusted the throttle stop too, so it stops when the slides are 1mm from the top of the barrel, the manual told me to do that. Pretty sure that part allowed me to get a slide to the bottom and ‘jam a drill bit in there’ after turning the tick over screw to raise it.I put it all back together and started it up, have not took it for a run yet but I could get the bike to sit at 1200rpm. I will run it tomorrow and see if I can keep 1200rpm when the engine is at running temp, if not, when the engine is warm I will use the vacuum tune on it and see what I can get.In the meantime, thanks for all the help.