fuel pipe check ..... 950013500160M

[SPR]

So I ordered the bulk 1m fuel pipe to replace the rather old looking ones on the bike - part 950013500160M

Is it me or is it too small both in size and internal diameter ?

Thought I best check before wrestling with fitting !!

Thanks

Simon

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[Nurse Julie]

Yes Simon, looks you've ordered the smaller type (3.5mm I think, which is for the float drain bowl tubes) . It's 5.5mm you need.

[SPR]

Yes Simon, looks you've ordered the smaller type (3.5mm I think, which is for the float drain bowl tubes) . It's 5.5mm you need.

Bugger

[Nurse Julie]

Yes Simon, looks you've ordered the smaller type (3.5mm I think, which is for the float drain bowl tubes) . It's 5.5mm you need.

Bugger

😂 😂 😂 😂 😂

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

You are not alone Simon.

Been there done that at the start of my 400 build.

I call it the learing dip! (before the curve)

[SPR]

You are not alone Simon.

Been there done that at the start of my 400 build.

Such is life I'm sure it will come in

On the plus side the NOS clutch cable is as smooth as silk ...... downside I seem to have bought 2 !  oh and the clutch bar thing is broken so ofcourse I've bought 2 no NOS ones just in case !!!

[Oddjob]

Not sure if this will interest you Simon, but I got Piki to make me some decals for the overflow pipes off the carbs. Same as the ones on the HT leads, this way I can identify at a glance if one starts to leak and which one it is without pulling pipes off or tracing them back up (which isn't always possible) and saves fuel getting on top of the engine when you do pull a pipe off and find the overflowing carb, some engine paint don't like petrol so why risk it.

I would also advise pulling the clutch lifter mechanism apart, the one inside the sprocket case. Check it's intact, especially under the seal, they do get cracked, inspect the ball bearing for roundness, clean it up and regrease liberally.

[SPR]

Not sure if this will interest you Simon, but I got Piki to make me some decals for the overflow pipes off the carbs. Same as the ones on the HT leads, this way I can identify at a glance if one starts to leak and which one it is without pulling pipes off or tracing them back up (which isn't always possible) and saves fuel getting on top of the engine when you do pull a pipe off and find the overflowing carb, some engine paint don't like petrol so why risk it.

I would also advise pulling the clutch lifter mechanism apart, the one inside the sprocket case. Check it's intact, especially under the seal, they do get cracked, inspect the ball bearing for roundness, clean it up and regrease liberally.

I'll get on to Piki for a set - thanks

The push rod is definately broken ... I pushed it back together and it shifts OK but have picked up a couple of NOS ones so will replace it ....

I'll change the ball bearing - how do I get the lifter mechanism apart ? I've seen pics of it broken but TBH didn't check this as I was just happy to have installed the cable without loosing anything or breaking anything

Simon

[Bryanj]

Undo the locking screw on the outside, remove the fork piece on the inside and the complete mechanism comes out from the inside

[JezzaPeach]

Simon
My push rod was broken beyond the “guide hole” and was burred, so it wouldn’t come out left side. I had to take off the clutch housing and take it out that side. Hope yours is easier. Best J

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

This push rod is it the long part that goes from one side of the engine to the other?

Are new ones available mine is very rusty at the left side end ?

[Oddjob]

Yes Ted. It's all one piece, if yours is in 2 pieces it's broken and should be replaced.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Yes Ted. It's all one piece, if yours is in 2 pieces it's broken and should be replaced.

Mine is in one piece but the end couple of inches is very rusty at the cable end.

[JezzaPeach]

Trigger supplied me with a stronger version. Very pleased.

[SPR]

Trigger supplied me with a stronger version. Very pleased.

I checked but he hasn't any more available ...... I think I'll have to go in from the clutch housing as the piece that was coming out didn't look very long - unless you know an easy way