Nice SS rear brake stop made by Max!

[Oddjob]

Not even mixed my chemicals for plating. Is that zinc/nickel or just zinc Roo?

I'm going with zinc/nickel as it's supposed to be brighter and harder.

Thinking about black passivating that particular piece myself, I tend to have the foot peg powder coated black instead of going with the standard zinc plated look, just my personal preference.

When I finally get round to making my new workbench I'll unpack all my plating stuff. I'll be really honest here and say for some reason I'm scared of starting it, I have this feeling it's not going to turn out well, no idea why, something to do with square inches etc and working out how long to give it in the tank. Some of my pieces are going to be big, like 30 square inches of surface area big, it's just got me doubting myself and that keeps me from starting it. I'll probably end up being a wizard at it, which would be ironic, maths is a real strong point for me so that should help.

[Laverdaroo]

Yeah, full here, now I’ve got planning permission from the LHG I’m looking forward to getting the new shed up on the end of this one
Another 6x3m on the end of this one….

Platings coming on a treat soz bout piccie, my alarm went off

[Toko_Jo]

Some of my pieces are going to be big, like 30 square inches of surface area big, it's just got me doubting myself and that keeps me from starting it. I'll probably end up being a wizard at it, which would be ironic, maths is a real strong point for me so that should help.

For 30 sq" ...I would start with 3 Amp (constant current supply if available), immersion for 45 mins with agitation.

[Oddjob]

I have the power supply that gateros sells Jo, I hope that's good enough. If not I'll have to buy a more powerful one, I'll ask Ash for advise as he's the resident Guru on plating on the forum.

[Laverdaroo]

Itys just bright zinc with a blue passivaye at the end. This is probably the most consistant batch Ive done to date I reckon.Its all come out really good.

I was going to say, ask Ash, he's yer man for this alchemy. I'mjust a noddy,fiddling in the shed doing bolts and the like,biggest thing I've done is a spindle for ther LHG's400.Ifinda constant 1.1-1.2V's running for 30mins min at30C andit works a treat.

Bit Heath Robison but never the less I'm getting a good finish that appears to last, if looking at the 400 is any evidence? I appreciate that its not got wet yet but so far so good 12 months on..

[Johnny4428]

Looking good Roo! Very satisfying results, what a pain in the rear to clean all those fiddly parts, especially the projectiles that fly from the wire wheel! 😂😂

[Seabeowner]

Oh those, different bolt I think on the 500, mine have been replaced by some gold Titanium ones with gold Titanium shouldered lock nuts. The 500 ones are 8mm I seem to recall the 550F uses 6mm bolts, could be wrong, many years since I stripped a 550F.

Pretty sure one of them uses a 7mm thread! Pretty difficult to get I imagine.

[Trigger]

Nice stainless steel brake part arrived yesterday  - yes the split pin hole is in the same place - nice bit of machining by amx1992.

Its even shinier in the flesh!

.500 brake hub stop by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

That bolt in stainless is not strong enough to do the job. The torque bar / torsion bar is a moving part and requires a 8.8 strength bolt. 

[amx1992]

The bolts are made from 431 high tensile stainless, tensile strength 850 - 1000mpa. 8.8 bolts have a tensile strength of 800+, so how is the one ive made not enough to do the job?

I wouldnt mind, but you havent asked what grade stainless or anything, youve just assumed and come in criticizing my work.

[Trigger]

The bolts are made from 431 high tensile stainless, tensile strength 850 - 1000mpa. 8.8 bolts have a tensile strength of 800+, so how is the one ive made not enough to do the job?

I wouldnt mind, but you havent asked what grade stainless or anything, youve just assumed and come in criticizing my work.

I must apologize, and it is refreshing that someone knows what grades of stainless to be used.  well done that man.   

I am always suspicious on the used of stainless a, there are so many people selling stainless steel product's on ebay  and other websites that are very low quality grades and some that even rust.
 

[Oddjob]

All grades of stainless steel will rust, there is some iron left in all of them and it's that that starts to rust.

Post by Krupps.

Some types of stainless steel are more prone to corrosion than others, depending on the chromium content. The higher the chromium content, the less likely the metal will rust. But, over time and if not maintained correctly, rust can and will develop on stainless steel.

[Matt_Harrington]

I have the power supply that gateros sells Jo, I hope that's good enough. If not I'll have to buy a more powerful one, I'll ask Ash for advise as he's the resident Guru on plating on the forum.

The Gateros one looks the same as mine and will go to 30A. It will work with constant current which is ideal.
Matt

[Oddjob]

Mine doesn't seem to settle on any figure, goes all over the place. Used it when trying to de-chrome some parts. Not tried do the opposite way as yet.

[Matt_Harrington]

Mine doesn't seem to settle on any figure, goes all over the place. Used it when trying to de-chrome some parts. Not tried do the opposite way as yet.

I'm not saying this is your issue but the only time I get that is when there is a poor electrical connection on the parts....
Matt

[Laverdaroo]

It will change if the electrolite is being moved by aggitation or if any parts move as you effect the ions being exposed to the part, same as if you remove a part for a look and put it straight back in, the voltage will change.  If I turn up the bubbler in mine I get different readings always. I generalluy plate arount 1.1 to 1.4V all the way and adjust to suit when required, usually when changing batches and the amount of parts change......